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Equivalence

 

 

INTRODUCTION

          super-duper quick
          super quick
          quick
              

Q&A

DEFINITIONS OF TERMS AND ABBREVIATIONS

DEFINITION OF EQUIVALENCE

THE PURPOSE OF EQUIVALENCE

EQUIVALENCE AND PARTIAL EQUIVALENCE

 

THE FIVE POSTULATES OF EQUIVALENCE

          perspective
          framing (FOV/AOV)
               EFL for a lens as a function of perspective
               thin lens approximation formula
               sensor sizes
          DOF / aperture
               background blur and sharpness vs DOF
               diffraction
               examples of format equivalents
          shutter speed
          display dimensions

 

IMAGE QUALITY

     attributes of a camera
     image quality vs a quality image
     attributes of IQ
     subjective vs objective
     how equipment affects IQ
     post-processing
     PPI & DPI
     role of sensor size in IQ

 

MYTHS AND COMMON MISUNDERSTANDINGS

     f/2 = f/2 = f/2
     larger sensor systems are bulky and heavy
     larger sensor systems have a DOF that is "too shallow"; smaller sensor systems have "more DOF"
     larger sensors require sharper lenses
     larger sensor systems have softer edges and more vignetting than smaller sensor systems
     assuming "equivalent" means "equal"
     assuming "equivalence" is based on equal noise
     larger sensors have less noise because they have larger pixel / higher ISOs result in more noise
     comparing images at their native sizes rather than the same output size
     larger sensor systems gather more light and have less noise than smaller sensor systems


     
EXPOSURE, APPARENT EXPOSURE, & TOTAL LIGHT

     the role of f-ratio in exposure and total light
     T-stop vs F-stop / fast lenses and lost light
     metering

 

NOISE, DYNAMIC RANGE, AND TONAL RANGE

     photon noise
     read noise
     the role of ISO
     efficiency
     pixel size vs noise
     quality vs quantity of noise
     detail vs noise
     dynamic range

 

LENS VS SENSOR

MEGAPIXELS:  QUALITY VS QUANTITY

EQUIVALENT LENSES

IQ VS OPERATION

HYPOTHETICAL COMPARISON

EVIDENCE

RELATED ARTICLES

CONCLUSION

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

 

 

 

 

 

INTRODUCTION

 

First of all, before I even begin, please take a few moments to watch a hilarious video on "camera competition":

Hitler rants about D3x

and a quick lesson in photography:

You stole my freakin' cameras

My apologies if linking to a Hitler parody offends anyone, or if the language is a bit rough in the second link, but sometimes funny is just funny.  :  )

It is my hope that this essay is useful and informative in explaining the differences between formats (sensor sizes), and what role both the sensor and glass play in terms of image quality (the section on IQ is a "must read" to keep the relevance of these differences in perspective, if you'll pardon the pun).  This is a very technical essay that explains technical aspects of photography, most notably noise, exposure, and DOF.  The target audience is those who want to understand the physics of photography and how this applies to the engineering of modern digital cameras, and, more specifically, to how this relates to the different formats.  This essay is not targeted to people who want to know how to use their cameras to create "good" photographs.  As long as this essay is, that essay would be quite a bit longer.

The concept of Equivalence (photos that share the same perspective, framing, DOF, shutter speed, and display size) is controversial since it revolves around a "total light / aperture" paradigm as opposed to the conventional "exposure / f-ratio" paradigm.  In other words, for Equivalent photos, the same total amount of light will fall on the sensor, as opposed to the same density of light (exposure).  Thus, "f/2 = f/2" is no more or less true than "50mm = 50mm" when comparing different formats.  Equivalence is a framework to compare photos from different formats based on technology-independent parameters that directly relate to the visual properties of the final photo.

The ongoing struggle is to balance being concise with being complete.  To that end, the "On the Super-Duper Quick" box below is about as concise as it gets.  If that is unsatisfactory, there is an "On the Super Quick" box immediately following that gives a bit more detail.  If you're still not satisfied, there's an "On the Quick" box that immediately follows.  After that, there is the Q&A Section that gives even more explanation still.  After that, there is the rest of the essay, which, as long as it is, is still not complete.  However, throughout the essay and at the end are links to other resources that either present alternative explanations and/or go into more depth still.

 

On the Super-Duper Quick:

 

 
  • The primary causes of noise in a photo are:

    • The total amount of light falling on the sensor
    • The proportion of the light falling on the sensor that is recorded (QE -- Quantum Efficiency)
    • The additional noise added by the sensor and supporting hardware (read noise)

    The same total amount of light will fall on the sensor for Equivalent photos, which will thus result in the same image noise for equally efficient sensors.
  • While Equivalent photos will look very similar, they will not be identical, as there are many other visual properties, dependent upon the equipment, that may be very different (bokeh, detail, distortion, flare, moiré, etc.).  The two bullets below describe the two situations where Equivalent photos would be identical:

    • Consider two cameras, one with a sensor twice the size (four times the area) as the other.  If we were to shoot the same scene with each camera from the same position, using the same lens, focal length, f-ratio, and shutter speed, crop the middle 25% of the photo from the camera with the larger sensor, then the resulting photo would be equivalent to the photo taken with the smaller sensor camera when displayed at the same size. If the sensors had the same efficiency and pixel density, then the crop from the larger sensor system would look exactly the same as the photo from the smaller sensor camera.

    • Alternatively, if the sensors had the same efficiency and same number of pixels, but the larger sensor camera used a perfect 2x TC (teleconverter) with the same lens used on the smaller sensor camera, shot the same scene from the same position with the twice the f-ratio and four times the ISO (thus the same shutter speed), then the resulting photos from the two cameras would, once again, look exactly the same when displayed at the same size and brightness.

 

 

On the Super Quick:

 

 

Let's begin with defining some critical terms:

 

  • The f-ratio is the quotient of the focal length and the aperture diameter (e.g., a 50mm lens with an aperture diameter of 25mm has an f-ratio of 50mm / 25mm = f/2).

  • The exposure is the density of the light falling on the sensor and is measured in units of photons / mm˛, or, equivalently lux·seconds.

  • The total light is the total amount of light that falls on the sensor during the exposure (Total Light = Exposure · Sensor Area) and is measured in units of photons, or, equivalently, lumen·seconds.

 

Given two systems where R is the ratio of the larger sensor diagonal to the smaller sensor diagonal, then:

 

  • the focal length of the smaller sensor system times R gives the focal length for the same AOV on the larger sensor system,

  • the f-ratio of the smaller sensor system times R gives the same aperture diameter for the same AOV as the larger sensor system,

  • the same AOV and aperture diameter results in the same DOF for a given perspective and framing on both systems,

  • the ISO of the smaller sensor system times R˛ gives the ISO for the larger sensor system that results in the same shutter speed for a given scene, metering, and aperture diameter,

  • the same aperture diameter and shutter speed will result in the same total amount of light falling on the sensors for a given scene,

  • the same total amount of light falling on the sensors will result in the same noise if the sensors are equally efficient.

 

 

On the Quick:

 

 
  • Equivalent images, as opposed to "equal" images (discussed in more detail here), are simply images which have the same perspective, framing, DOF, shutter speed, and display dimensions.  Equivalent lenses, then, are lenses on different formats that produce Equivalent images.

  • Equivalence is only relevant when comparing different formats.  For example, if we are comparing the performance of a 50mm lens designed for 135 (35mm FF) to a 50mm lens designed for APS-C or 4/3, both lenses being used on the same camera, Equivalence does not come into play.

  • Neither the focal length nor the f-ratio of a lens change as a function of format:  50mm = 50mm and f/2 = f/2 regardless of the format the lens is used on.

  • The effect of the focal length and f-ratio of a lens, however, do change as a function of format.  For example, 50mm on 4/3, 62.5mm on 1.6x, and 100mm on 135 all have the same AOV (diagonal angle of view -- the effect of different aspect ratios is discussed in more detail here).  Thus, 50mm on 4/3 is equivalent to 62.5mm on 1.6x which is equivalent to 100mm on 135.  Furthermore, 50mm f/2 on 4/3 has the same aperture diameter as 62.5mm f/2.5 on 1.6x and 100mm f/4 on 135 (50mm / 2 = 62.5mm / 2.5 = 100mm / 4 = 25mm).  Thus, f/2 on 4/3 is equivalent to f/2.5 on 1.6x which is equivalent to f/4 on 135 (discussed in more detail here).

  • The DOF is the same for all systems for a given perspective, framing, aperture diameter, and display display size.  For the same aperture diameter and shutter speed, the same total amount of light (but not the same exposure, which is the density of light -- discussed in more detail here) will fall on the sensor.

  • Since Equivalent images are made from the same total amount of light, if the sensors have the same efficiency, the noise will also be the same, despite having different exposures (noise is discussed in more detail here).  Typically, sensors of the same generation are rather close in efficiency, but there are most certainly exceptions.

  • That larger sensor systems will use a higher ISO to maintain the same DOF and shutter speed as smaller sensor systems is, for the most part, a non-issue. The image noise is simply a function of total light and sensor efficiency.  For many sensors, the higher ISOs are more efficient than the lower ISOs (see here for the details).

  • The reason that smaller sensors are more noisy than larger sensors is not because they are less efficient, but because less light falls on them for a given exposure.  If the larger sensor is more efficient than the smaller sensor, then the noise gap will widen, if the smaller sensor is more efficient, the noise gap will shrink.

  • Larger formats do not necessarily have a more shallow DOF than smaller formats.  Larger formats have the option of a more shallow DOF than smaller formats for a given perspective and framing when using a lens that has a larger aperture diameter, as the lenses for larger formats usually, but not always, have larger aperture diameters for a given AOV.  However, people using Auto, P, or Tv modes on the camera will likely find that the larger format camera will choose a wider aperture in many situations, resulting in a more shallow DOF.  In addition, many choose to use a wider aperture (resulting in a more shallow DOF) to get more light on the sensor and thus less noise.

  • Equivalence says nothing about shallow DOF being superior to deep DOF, as this is entirely subjective (DOF is discussed in more detail here).

  • The resolved detail is a function of the lens, the AA filter, the sensor, and the processing (RAW vs default jpg, for example).  A sharper lens (greater lp/mm) on a smaller sensor will not necessarily resolve more than a less sharp lens on a larger sensor. Instead, we need to compare the resolutions in lw/ph, as DPR does with their MTF-50 tests (discussed in more detail here).  Furthermore, the resolved detail is also a function of the number of pixels on the sensor (discussed in more detail here), and all systems suffer the same amount of diffraction softening equally at the same DOF, although the system that began with more detail will retain more detail (although the advantage asymptotically vanishes as the DOF deepens -- discussed in more detail here).

  • Equivalence makes no claims whatsoever about which system is superior to another system, especially given that there are so many aspects about systems that Equivalence does not address.  For example, in terms of IQ, Equivalence says nothing about bokeh, moiré, distortion, color, etc., and in terms of operation, Equivalence says nothing about AF, build, features, etc.  In fact, Equivalence can even work against larger sensor systems by denying them their "noise advantage" when they need to match both the DOF and shutter speed of smaller sensor systems.

  • However, Equivalence does make the argument that it makes no sense to artificially handicap one system or the other by requiring identical settings for a comparison, when identical settings result in different effects on different systems.

 

 

 

 

   

 

Q&A

 

This section is a longer version of the "On the Quick" points in the introduction.  All these points are addressed in more detail in other sections of the essay.

Before beginning the Q&A session, it's important to keep the capabilities of the equipment in context with the skills of the photographer, the types of photos they take, and the size at which they're displayed.  That is, even given that the equipment is capable does not give us any sense that the photographer can make full use of that potential, or that the differences will be meaningful for how the equipment is used.  Of course, just how much of a difference constitutes "meaningful" depends on the photographer or, perhaps more accurately, the target audience (which, in many cases, is the photographer!).  So, while one camera system may have higher IQ than another, this does not necessarily mean it's the best system for the job at hand for a particular photographer, nor does it necessarily mean that the differences in IQ between systems makes any meaningful difference for the end product to the target audience.  In the end, we must consider the system as a whole, both in terms of IQ and operation, and in conjunction with our needs, skills, and audience.  That all said, let's begin the Q&A:

Q:  What does "Equivalence" mean? 
AEquivalence simply refers to images that have the same perspective, framing, DOF, shutter speed, and display dimensions.

Q:  So what's the difference between "Equivalent" and "equal"? 
A:  While the five parameters listed above are obvious visual qualities to an image, they're not the whole story.  There's also detail, noise, bokeh, color, etc.

Q:  So what makes the five parameters of Equivalence so special? 
A:  The parameters of equivalence are not affected by the technology of the equipment, so we can normalize these important visual qualities and provide a basis for an "apples to apples" comparison.

Q:  Isn't the real purpose of Equivalence to stack the deck against smaller sensor systems and promote FF?
A:  In fact, the exact opposite is true.  Larger sensor systems are at their worst (in terms of IQ) when comparing fully equivalent images.  The IQ advantages of FF come into play when they can use base ISO and still maintain the desired DOF and a shutter speed sufficiently high enough to avoid camera shake or motion blur (unless, of course, motion blur is desirable), or when a more shallow DOF is desirable.

Q:  Don't Equivalent images have the same noise?
A:  If the sensors are equally efficient, then Equivalent photos will have the same noise since the same total light falls on the sensor.  The question, then, is how much sensors vary in efficiency.  Sensors of the same generation are usually within a half stop.

Q:  But don't FF cameras have much more than a half stop over smaller sensor cameras?
A:  Not for Equivalent photos.  The larger sensor systems get their noise advantage when they can put more light on the sensor than smaller sensor systems.

Q:  How do FF cameras get more light on the sensor than smaller sensor cameras?
A:  By using a lower shutter speed at the same DOF and base ISO when the shutter speed is still fast enough to account for motion blur and/or camera shake (e.g. a 4/3 DSLR at 25mm f/4 1/500 ISO 100 vs a FF DSLR shoots the same scene at 50mm f/8 1/125 ISO 100), or by using a more shallow DOF in lower light with a lens that has a larger aperture diameter (e.g. a 4/3 DSLR using 25mm f/1.4 1/200 ISO 400 vs a FF DSLR using 50mm f/1.4 1/200 ISO 1600).

Q:  Doesn't the same exposure mean the same amount of light?
A:  This is the biggest stumbling block to understanding Equivalence -- the difference between exposure and total light.  No, the same exposure on different formats does not result in the same amount of light falling on the sensor.  The exposure is the density of the light on the sensor, whereas the total light is the product of the exposure and sensor area.  See here for more details.

Q:  Isn't the reason that larger sensor systems have less noise and more dynamic range because they have larger pixels?
A:  No, that's another common myth.  The noise is simply a function of the total light and sensor efficiency (discussed in more detail here).

Q:  But don't larger sensor systems have softer corners and more vignetting than smaller sensor systems?
A:  It depends on the lens, but it's usually pretty close for the same framing and DOF.  Sometimes, the extreme corners for larger sensors may be softer, and exhibit more vignetting, even at the same DOF, (especially true with cheap UWAs), but the image will usually be sharper and more detailed elsewhere in the frame.

Q:  How can a softer lens on a larger sensor resolve more than a sharper lens on a smaller sensor?
A:  This point is directly addressed here.  On the quick, the following example explains the logic:  Consider the Zuiko 150 / 2 on 4/3 and the Canon 300 / 4L IS on 135, which are equivalent lenses on their respective formats -- that is, both have the same AOV and maximum aperture diameter.  The 150 / 2 tested at 49 lp/mm wide open, whereas the 300 / 4L IS tested at 36 lp/mm wide open.  Since the 4/3 sensor is 13mm tall, and the 135 sensor is 24mm tall, these figures translate to 49 lp/mm · 13mm/ih = 637 lp/ih for the 150/2 and 36 lp/mm · 24mm/ih = 864 lp/ih for the 300 / 4L IS.  In other words, even though the 150 / 2 is the sharper lens, the 300 / 4L IS out resolves it on the larger sensor.

Q:  Don't smaller sensors have more DOF than larger sensors?
A:  For the same perspective, framing, and f-ratio, yes.  Of course, the photographer can always stop down to get whatever DOF they need.  For photographers shooting in Auto, P, or Tv mode, however, they may find that the larger sensor systems choose a more shallow DOF for them.

Q:  Won't larger sensors suffer diffraction softening earlier than smaller sensors when stopping down for the same DOF?
A:  It depends on how you define "suffer".  So long as the larger sensor system has at least the same number of pixels as the smaller sensor system, it will resolve at least as much detail for the same perspective, framing, and DOF as the smaller sensor system.  However, for the system that has greater pixel count, regardless of sensor size, diffraction softening will begin to lessen the detail advantage afforded by the greater number of pixels at smaller DOFs.

Q:  Don't smaller sensor systems have more reach?
A:  Usually, but not always.  Effective reach is simply how many pixels the sensor has on the subject for a given perspective and focal length.  Since smaller sensor systems often have a much greater pixel density than larger sensor systems, they usually have a greater effective reach, but not in every instance.  For example, since the Canon 1DsIII (FF) and 20D (1.6x) both have the same size pixels, and thus the same pixel density, if we were to use the same focal length on both cameras, shoot the same scene from the same position, and crop the 1DsIII image to the same FOV as the 20D image, it would have the same number of pixels as the 20D image.  Thus, the effective reach is the same for both cameras.

Q:  Bottom line:  do larger sensor systems deliver higher IQ?
A:  Generalizations are dangerous to make.  That said, larger sensor systems often have "higher overall IQ" when they can maintain the desired perspective, framing, DOF, and shutter speed (note:  "desired" does not necessarily mean "same") at the same ISO as the smaller sensor system.  How "often" and by how much this generalization is true depends on the relative difference between the size of the sensors and presumes, of course, that we are comparing sensors with the same, or nearly the same, efficiency, where the larger sensor system has at least as many pixels on the scene as the smaller sensor system.  Furthermore, it also presumes that we are comparing lenses of similar caliber on their respective systems.  In addition, the system that resolves more detail, can either extend its noise advantage, or mitigate its noise disadvantage, though the use of more aggressive NR (noise reduction).

Q:  What's the deal with the "apparent" prefix?
A:  The idea behind the "apparent" prefix was to distinguish between different meanings of words and phrases that have ambiguous meanings.  For example, "exposure" means the density of the light that makes up an image (photons / area), as opposed to how bright or dark the image actually appears.  So, the term "apparent exposure" includes ISO (either in-camera or software push) to represent how brightness of the adjusted image appears.  In addition, noise can be used to represent both the density of the noise (NSR -- noise-to-signal ratio) in an image, which is what most people mean by "noise" (just as "apparent exposure" is what most people mean when they say "exposure"), as opposed to the total amount of noise in an image.  Thus, using the term "apparent noise" to represent the NSR, or how noisy an image appears, just as using the term "apparent exposure" to represent how bright and image appears, made sense in terms of useful terminology.

Q:  Last question -- Angelina Jolie or Jessica Alba?
A:  Well this is what Equivalence is all about.  At about the same age, Angelina Jolie, but that's not to take anything away from Jessica Alba.  But the current Angelina Jolie is a bit older design than the newer Jessica Alba.  So, while there are still some plusses to Angelina Jolie, if I were choosing today, I'd go with the younger model.  Of course, for the most part, it's not the equipment, but the operator.  Someone who knows what they're doing will produce much better "results" with Angelina Jolie than most could ever hope to accomplish with Jessica Alba.  Of course, those with the experience and skills know how to use, and make the best of, both.  : )

 

   

 

 

 

DEFINITIONS OF TERMS AND ABBREVIATIONS

 

Many of the misunderstandings come from people using different definitions for the same words. In particular, "f-ratio" is often confused with "aperture", and "exposure" is confused with "apparent exposure" and "total light". The importance of these distinctions is often overlooked or simply not understood, so a quick browse through this section would be helpful in understanding the rest of the essay.

  • IQ:  Image Quality

  • QT:  Quality Threshold

  • PP:  Post Processing

  • PPI:  Pixels per inch (not to be confused with DPI -- dots per inch -- which is a function of the printer)

  • lp/ph:  line pairs per picture height

  • lw/ph:  line widths per picture height (lw/ph = 2 · lp/ph, lp/ph = ˝ · lw/ph)

  • lp/mm:  line pairs per mm (on the sensor -- lp/ph = lp/mm · sensor height)

  • NR:  Noise Reduction

  • Relative Sharpness:  Two lenses that resolve the same on the systems they are used on have the same relative sharpness

  • AF:  Auto Focus

  • AOV:  Angle of View (of the diagonal, unless otherwise specified)

  • FOV:  Field of View (framing)

  • UWA:  Ultra Wide Angle

  • FormatSensor Size (e.g. 1/1.8", 4/3, 1.5x, 1.6x, 35mm FF, etc.)

  • Aspect Ratio:  The ratio of the length to width of an image

  • 135:  A sensor measuring 36mm x 24mm, sometimes simply referred to as "35mm FF" or just "FF" (Full Frame)

  • Output Size:  The number of pixels making up an image, or the dimensions of a print

  • Perspective:  The relative position of objects in the frame (a function only of subject-camera distance -- format and focal length independent)

  • FL:  Focal Length

  • EFL:  Equivalent Focal Length (usually the focal length that gives the same AOV in terms of 35mm FF)

  • Reach:  We say that System A has, for example, 50% more reach than System B if System A resolves 50% more detail then System B when System B is cropped to the same framing as System A, or when the two systems resolve the same detail when System B uses a 50% longer focal length than System A.

  • TC:  Teleconverter (usually 1.4x or 2x)

  • DOF:  Depth of Field (the depth of the image from the focal plane that is considered to be in critical focus)

  • aperture:  The physical aperture is the narrowest opening in a lens, the virtual aperture (entrance pupil) is the image of the physical aperture when viewed through the FE (front element), and the relative aperture (f-ratio) is the quotient of the focal length and virtual aperture.  In this essay, when the term "aperture" is used without a qualifying adjective, it is taken to be synonymous with the virtual aperture (entrance pupil).

  • F-Ratio:  The ratio of the focal length and the aperture diameter (e.g. the f-ratio for a focal length of 50mm and an aperture diameter of 25mm is 50mm / 25mm = f/2)

  • A difference of one stop represents a doubling/halving of the amount light that falls on the sensor (e.g. f/2.8 to f/4 or 1/100 to 1/50) or a doubling/halving of the processing of the light that falls on the sensor (e.g. ISO 100 to ISO 200).

  • Ev:  Exposure Value:  0 Ev = 2.5 lux·seconds.  A scene metered for f/1 and 1s has an Ev of 0.  Brighter scenes have higher Ev's, darker scenes have lower Ev's.  A difference of 1 Ev is 1 stop.

  • Exposure:  The total light per area (photons / mm˛) that falls on the sensor while the shutter is open, which is usually expressed as the product of the illuminance of the sensor and the time the shutter is open (lux · seconds). The only factors in the exposure are the scene luminance, t-stop (where the f-ratio is often a good approximation for the t-stop), and the shutter speed (note that neither sensor size nor ISO are factors in exposure).

  • Apparent Exposure:  The brightness of an image (what people usually think of as "exposure" -- same units as exposure):  Apparent Exposure = Exposure x Amplification

  • Total Light:  The total number of photons that falls on the sensor (lumen·seconds, or, equivalently, photons):  Total Light = Exposure x Effective Sensor Area

  • Noise:  The standard deviation of the recorded signal from the mean signal

  • Apparent Noise:  The density of the noise in the image (NSR -- Noise-to-Signal Ratio), usually measured as a percent -- what is usually meant by "noise"

  • Efficiency:  How well the sensor captures and records the light that falls on it

  • DR:  Dynamic Range -- the number of stops from the read noise to the saturation of a pixel

  • TR:  Tonal Range -- the number of stops from the 100% NSR to the saturation for one µphoto (one-millionth of a photo).

  • Diffraction Softening:  Loss of detail due to diffraction as the lens is stopped down

  • Vignetting:  The radial light falloff from the center of an image

  • Distortion:  As used in this essay, the degree to which parallel lines stay parallel in the image

  • Bayer:  A color array where each pixel records one color (usually red, green, or blue)

  • Foveon:   A color array where each pixel records three colors

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    DEFINITION OF EQUIVALENCE

     

    Equivalent photos are photos of a given scene that share the following five parameters:

    •  Perspective
    •  Framing
    •  DOF
    •  Shutter Speed
    •  Display Dimensions

    It is important to note that the parameters above refer to the visual properties of the photo, but do no include elements of IQ, most notably detail and noise (Noise Equivalence is a related, but separate consideration, and is discussed here, whereas detail depends on the sharpness of the lens, the size of the sensor, the number of pixels, and the AA filter).

    In the event we are comparing systems with different aspect ratios (such as 4:3 vs 3:2), then we achieve the same framing by cropping one image to the the aspect ratio of the other (or crop both to a common aspect ratio).  Alternatively, it is sufficient, in terms of the principles of Equivalence, to compare at the same AOV (angle-of-view) and display with the same diagonal measurement.  The details of this are discussed at the end of this section.

    Similarly, "equivalent lenses" are lenses that produce equivalent images on their respective formats, which means they will have the same AOV and the same aperture diameter.  For example, 50mm on 4/3 and 62.5mm on 1.6x are equivalent to 100mm on 135 since these focal lengths result in the same AOV on their respective formats.  Furthermore, and f/2 on 4/3 and f/2.5 on 1.6x are equivalent to f/4 on 135 since those f-ratios result in the same aperture diameter for the same AOV on their respective formats (50mm / 2 = 62.5mm / 2.5 = 100mm / 4 = 25mm).

    It's worthwhile to discuss the "appropriateness" of my use of the term "equivalent" in connection to how I have defined it with respect to photography.  According to Webster's, the primary definition of "equivalent" is:

    1: equal in force, amount, or value

    So, "equivalent images" have equal perspective, equal framing, equal DOF, equal shutter speeds, and equal display dimensions.  The second and third definitions of "equivalent" also fits how I use the term:

    2a:  like in signification or import
    3:    corresponding or virtually identical especially in effect or function

    In other words, as mentioned above, Equivalent images are not "equal", but instead have five equal attributes which all correspond to the visual properties of the final photo.  So, while equivalent images on different formats will usually have the most similar visual properties, they will not be identical, as other visual elements, such as noise, detail, flare, moiré, distortion, bokeh, etc., will not necessarily be the same, and sometimes, radically different.

    Equivalent images on different formats, by definition, will not have the same exposure, and this is the source of most all resistance to the concept.  Many feel that exposure has been usurped with DOF, but this reflects not only a lack of understanding of what exposure actually is, but how much of a role DOF plays in a photo, even if DOF, per se, is not a consideration.  While the artistic value of DOF is subjective, the fact is that both the total light and the DOF are functions of the aperture diameter.  Larger aperture diameters admit more light, but they also introduce more aberrations from the lens.  Thus, DOF, noise, and sharpness are all intrinsically related through the aperture of the lens.

    Exposure is not how bright or dark a photo appears -- we can lighten or darken a photo as we see fit.  Exposure is the density of light that falls on the sensor.  However, it is not the density of light falling on the sensor that matters, but the total light that makes up the photo, since the total light, combined with the sensor efficiency, determine the image noise.  This crucial distinction between exposure and total light has an entire section of the essay devoted to it, as does the section on noise.

    So, while equal noise is not a parameter of Equivalent images, it is a consequence of Equivalent images if the sensors are equally efficient.  The primary elements in image noise, in order, are:

    •  The Total Amount of Light that falls on the sensor (exposure · sensor area)
    • 
    The percent of this light that is captured by the sensor (QE -- quantum efficiency)
    • 
    The additional noise added by the sensor and supporting hardware (read noise)

    Other factors, such as ISO and pixel count / size play a minor role in apparent noise compared to the above three factors.  Because equivalent images are made from the same total amount of light (since equivalent images, by definition, will have the same framing, aperture diameter, and shutter speed), and sensors of the same generation usually have similar QE / read noise, equivalent images from cameras of them same generation will usually have similar apparent noise for equivalent images.  People commonly believe that larger sensor systems have less apparent noise because they have better sensors, when, in fact, it is instead because they collect more total light for a given exposure.

    Thus, breaking the properties of Equivalence down into the properties of the photo, lens, and sensor:

    •  Photos with the same perspective, framing, display dimensions, and aperture diameter will have the same DOF.
    • 
    If we also include same shutter speed, then they will also have the same motion blur / camera shake, as well as be made from the same total amount of light.
    • 
    Differences in noise for equivalent images will primarily be a function of sensor efficiency and read noise, which are usually minor for sensors of the same generation.

    Note that it said above that "equivalent images on different formats will usually have the most similar visual properties" -- but not always.  For example, if one system has a significantly less efficient sensor than another system, if motion blur and/or camera shake are not an issue, then a longer exposure at a lower ISO on the system with the less efficient sensor may more closely match the shorter exposure on the system with more efficient sensor.  Or, if the extreme corners are of some importance in the composition, and one system has greater edge sharpness than the other, the system with the softer edges may need to stop down more to achieve sharper corners.  But, in most circumstances, Equivalent images will be, if not the most similar, very close.

    A competent photographer will use their equipment to obtain the best image possible, which often means trading one IQ component for another (for example, when using a wider aperture to get less noise at the expense of less sharpness and greater vignetting).  However, it is important that we understand that these compromises represent choices that a photographer makes, and are not requirements imposed by the format.  Extending the example, it is disingenuous to say that a smaller format is superior to a larger format because it has more DOF, or is sharper, "wide open" than the larger format, when "wide open" is a choice, not a mandate, that results in a different (sometimes radically different) DOF and apparent noise, and the larger format can simply be stopped down for greater DOF and sharpness (although, if stopping down requires a concomitant increase in ISO to maintain a sufficient shutter speed, then the larger format may have to sacrifice some, or even all, of its noise advantage).

    Thus, Equivalence is about the consequences of choices a photographer has in terms of IQ as a function of format.

    As mentioned in the introduction, understanding the fundamental concepts of Equivalence requires making important distinctions between various terms which people often take to mean the same thing.  It is very much akin to making the distinction between "mass" and "weight", two terms which most people take to mean the same thing, when, in fact, they measure two different (but related) quantities.  While there are circumstances where making the distinction is unnecessary, there are other times when it is critical.

    The first of these distinctions that needs to be made is between aperture and f-ratio.  The term "aperture", by itself, is vague -- we need a qualifying adjective to be clear.  There are three different terms using "aperture":

    1.   The physical aperture (iris) is the smallest opening within a lens.
    2.   The virtual aperture (entrance pupil) is the image of the physical aperture when looking through the FE (front element).
    3.   The relative aperture (f-ratio) is the quotient of the focal length and the virtual aperture.

    For example, a 50mm lens whose  entrance pupil (virtual aperture) has a diameter of 25mm will have an f-ratio (relative aperture) of 50mm / 25mm = f/2.  Alternatively, a 50mm lens at f/2 has an entrance pupil (virtual aperture) diameter of 50mm / 2 = 25mm.  Interestingly, a "constant aperture" zoom is a zoom lens where physical aperture (iris) remains constant, but the virtual aperture (entrance pupil) scales with the focal length, thus keeping the relative aperture (f-ratio) constant as well.  Consider, for example, a 70-200 / 2.8 zoom.  At 70mm f/2.8, the entrance pupil (virtual aperture) diameter is 70mm / 2.8 = 25mm, and at 200mm f/2.8, it is 200mm / 2.8 = 71mm.  For simplicity, this essay uses the term "aperture diameter" to refer to the entrance pupil (virtual aperture) diameter.

    The concepts of, and connections between, total light, DOF, and noise, are much more easily understood in terms of aperture rather than f-ratio, especially when comparing different formats.  While the same f-ratio will result in the same exposure across formats (see here), the aperture diameter, together with the shutter speed, determines the total amount of light that falls on the sensor, and, together with sensor efficiency and read noise, determines the apparent noise in the image.  In addition, for a given perspective, framing, display size, viewing distance, and visual acuity, the aperture diameter determines the DOF.

    This naturally brings us to the distinction between total light, exposure, and apparent exposure.  The exposure is the density of the light that falls on the sensor, and is only relevant in that it is a component of the total light, which is, as the term implies, the total amount of light that falls on the sensor (total light = exposure · effective sensor area).  The importance of this distinction cannot be understated since the total light, as opposed to the exposure, combined with the sensor efficiency, determines the apparent noise of a photo.  It is for this reason that exposure has no meaning in cross-format comparisons.

    However, while Equivalent photos on larger formats will have a lower exposure than photos on a smaller format (since the same total light is distributed over a larger sensor), we need to apply a gain (usually by increasing the ISO) to achieve the same apparent exposure.  The effect of a higher ISO is the exact opposite of common wisdom:  increasing the ISO reduces noise (on most sensors).  The reason higher ISO photos are more noisy is not due to the higher ISO, but do to the fact that the higher ISO results in either a faster shutter speed, smaller aperture, or both in an AE (automatic exposure) mode.  The effect of a faster shutter speed and/or smaller aperture is to reduce the amount of light falling on the sensor, and it is the reduced amount of light on the sensor, not the higher ISO, per se, that increases the noise.  The higher ISO merely makes the sensor more efficient for most sensors, and it is for that reason that a higher ISO usually results in less noise than using a lower ISO and pushing the photo in post (albeit with the increased risk of blowing more highlights in some occasions).

    Of course, we seek to maximize the light on the sensor, regardless of the system, within the constraints of DOF, motion blur, and camera shake.  To maximize the total light on the sensor, the larger sensor system can use a larger aperture, but this will also result in a more shallow DOF, which may, or may not, be desirable.  However, in good light, or when motion blur is not an issue and a tripod is used, the larger sensor system can use whatever aperture is necessary to get the desired DOF, and use a longer shutter speed to collect more light.  Of course, if one system is using IS (image stabilization) and the other is not, that will often give the IS system an advantage in low light when motion blur is not an issue (or is desirable), since it will be able to use a lower shutter speed to get more light on the sensor in low light.

    The sensor ratio (more commonly referred to as the "crop factor") is the vehicle by which we compute equivalent settings for different formats.  For the same AOV, the sensor ratio, R,  is the ratio of the diagonal of the larger sensor to the diagonal of the smaller sensor.  If the aspect ratios (the ratio of the length and width of the sensor) are the same for the two systems, then the sensor ratio for the same AOV will be the same as the sensor for the same framing as well.

    However, if the aspect ratios are different, we will need to frame wider with one system, and then crop to the same framing as the other.  In this instance, we compute R as the ratio of the smaller dimensions of the sensors if cropping the more elongated image to the aspect ratio of the more square sensor, or the ratio of the longer dimensions of the sensors if we are cropping the more square image to the aspect ratio of the more elongated sensor.  It's often convenient to express the sensor ratio in stops (S) and then round to the nearest 1/3 stop:  S = 2 · log2 R ~ 2.885 · ln R.  Since the camera settings are often in 1/3 stop increments, it's helpful to recall that 1/3 ~ 0.33, and 2/3 ~ 0.67.

    Let's calculate the sensor ratio for various scenarios with FF (24mm x 36mm, 43.3mm diagonal) and 4/3 (13mm x 17.3mm, 21.6mm diagonal):

    •  Same AOV:  R = 43.3mm / 21.6mm = 2.00 (S = 2 stops)
    •  135 image cropped to same framing as 4/3 image:  R = 24mm / 13.0mm = 1.85 (S = 1.77 stops)
    •  4/3 image cropped to same framing as 135 image:  R = 36mm / 17.3mm = 2.08 (S = 2.11 stops)

    Another method to calculate the sensor ratio is for the photos to have the same display area.  This is calculated by taking the square root of the ratio of the sensor areas:

    •  Same display area:  R = sqrt (864mm˛ / 225mm˛) = 1.96 (S = 1.94 stops)

    Since the most common aspect ratios, by far, for digital cameras are 3:2 and 4:3, we can see that the practical differences in the sensor ratio between the AOV and framing differ by less than 1/3 of a stop, so it is not a significant factor in terms of total light gathered, and thus apparent noise.  In addition, 1/9 of the pixels will be cropped away from the edges, which will have negligible impact on the PPI of a print, but may be important in terms of comparing corner sharpness.  Regardless, as this essay regards differences less than 1/3 of a stop as trivial, so the differences in sensor ratios as a function of aspect ratio is not considered.

    Given two systems where R is the ratio of the larger sensor diagonal to the smaller sensor diagonal, and S is the sensor ratio expressed in stops, then:

     

    • the focal length of the smaller sensor system times R gives the focal length for the same AOV on the larger sensor system,

    • the f-ratio of the smaller sensor system times R (or plus S stops) gives the same aperture diameter for the same AOV as the larger sensor system,

    • the same AOV and aperture diameter results in the same DOF for a given perspective and framing on both systems,

    • the ISO of the smaller sensor system times R˛ (or plus S stops) gives the ISO for the larger sensor system that results in the same shutter speed for a given scene, metering, and aperture diameter,

    • the same aperture diameter and shutter speed will result in the same total amount of light falling on the sensors for a given scene,

    • the same total amount of light falling on the sensors will result in the same noise if the sensors are equally efficient.

     

     

     

     

     

     

    THE PURPOSE OF EQUIVALENCE

     

    A common criticism of Equivalence is that some people say that it does nothing to help them to take better pictures.  However, Equivalence is simply a framework by which to compare the IQ of different formats.   For many people, "equivalent" simply means photos with the same AOV and exposure.  On the other hand, this essay defines Equivalent photos as photos that share the same perspective, framing, DOF, shutter speed (motion blur), and display dimensions.  In addition, Equivalent images will be formed from the same total light (which necessarily means the exposures will be different).  Since the total light is the same, then for equally efficient sensors, the noise will also be the same.  From this point, we can compare the IQ of different systems, as well as see the range of photographs than each system can take.

    A useful comparison entails comparing systems for each particular job the camera is to be used for.  Naturally, the competent photographer would like to compare each system at its best settings for each particular job.   For example, if the purpose of a comparison were to capture a photo with as shallow DOF as possible for a particular perspective and framing, or low noise was more important than DOF or sharpness, it would make sense to compare systems at the same AOV with the lenses wide open.  However, if sharpness were a primary consideration, we would need to consider DOF, as elements of the scene outside the DOF, by definition, are not sharp.  Sometimes, the portions of the scene we wish to be sharp are within the DOF even at very wide apertures.  Regardless, we would not use the system at a wide aperture in a sharpness comparison unless the lens was sharpest at the wide apertures.

    Of course, comparing at the same DOF requires the larger sensor to stop down, which, in turn, will result in less light falling on the sensor if a lower shutter speed cannot be used (due to motion blur and/or camera shake in lower light), which will increase the noise in the photo.  This will take away the noise advantage that the larger system would normally enjoy over the smaller sensor system (for equally efficient sensors) and falls under the heading of TANSTAAFL (There Ain't No Such Thing as a Free Lunch).  In other words:

    We must be clear on the purpose of our comparison.  It makes no sense to compare two systems for a particular purpose with settings that are optimal for one system, but not optimal for another.

    Equivalence will tell us that 50 / 1.4 on 35mm FF is equivalent to a 31 / 0.9 on 1.6x or a 25 / 0.7 on 2x, neither of which exist, and is a reason for one person to choose a 35mm FF system if they needed such a lens.  On the other hand, what Equivalence does not tell us is that a 4/3 system can get you a DSLR and a lens with an EFL of 28-84mm for less than the cost of the most inexpensive FF DSLR body alone.  Even more extreme, are compact digicams, such as the Canon G10, which deliver an EFL of 28-140mm (albeit having an effective minimum DOF from f/13 - f/21), and have, according to some, IQ as good as medium format for certain situations (please take a read of this article).  In other words, Equivalence has its place, but other factors not only play a role, they are often the primary consideration.

    So while no two photos from two different systems will ever be equal, Equivalent photos from different systems will be as similar as photos from different systems will get.  Clearly, however, the point of choosing one system over another is not simply to get photos as close as possible to other systems (equivalent photos), but to get photos that look "better" (in each photographer's opinion) to what other systems can deliver (non-equivalent photos), or for the differences in operation (AF speed/accuracy, size, weight, frame rate, build, price, etc.).

    We can compare systems in many different ways.  The five parameters of Equivalence are simply guidelines to comparing systems on the basis of the most similar visual properties of the final photo, and are certainly not a mandate that systems must be compared in such a fashion.  Therefore, it is important to specify the purpose of the comparison, and then not artificially handicap one or the other system with the conditions of the comparison.  In addition, it is important to interpret the results of the comparison in the context of the circumstances where the conditions of the comparison are valid.

    The point of photography is making photos.  As such, one doesn't choose the particular system to get images which are equivalent to another system.  A person chooses a particular system for the best balance of the factors that matter to the them, such as price, size, weight, IQ, DOF range, available lenses, and/or operation.  By understanding which settings on which system create equivalent images, the difference in their capabilities is more easily understood.

     

     

     

     

     

    EQUIVALENCE AND PARTIAL EQUIVALENCE

     

    As discussed in the section above on the Purpose of Equivalence, Equivalence is merely the baseline for a meaningful comparison between systems based on the visual properties of the final photo.  Often, it makes much more sense to compare systems on the bases of images that are not fully equivalent, in order to maximize the IQ of the systems being compared for specific shooting situations.  Specifically, this occurs when one system is able to use a lower shutter speed or more shallow DOF than another system for a particular image.

    To that end, let's consider some comparisons between the Canon 5DII (35mm FF), Nikon D300 (1.5x), Canon 50D (1.6x), Olympus E30 (4/3).  The sensor ratio is 1.6 for the 5DII and D300, 1.6 for the 5DII and 50D, and 2 for the 5DII and E30 (for the same AOV only -- since the E30 has an aspect ratio of 4:3 as opposed to the 3:2 of the 5D, the framing will be slightly different).  We'll begin by comparing fully equivalent settings (rounded to the nearest 1/3 stop) on the four formats:

    5DII at 50mm, f/5.6, 1/200, ISO 400
    D300 at 33mm, f/3.5, 1/200, ISO 160
    • 7
    D at 31mm, f/3.5, 1/200, ISO 160
    E30 at 25mm, f/2.8, 1/200, ISO 100

    If the same scene is shot from the same position, all four systems will have the same perspective (subject-camera distance) and AOV.  If the resulting images have the same display dimensions, they will also have the same DOF.  In addition, because the shutter speeds are also the same, they will also have the same apparent exposure.  The level of apparent noise will depend on the efficiency of the sensor, although, typically, for a given generation of camera and at the same level of detail, the apparent noise levels will generally be very close for equivalent settings.  However, the level of detail will depend on both the pixel count of the sensor and the sharpness of the lenses used.  In this scenario of fully equivalent images, the differences in IQ between the systems will be at a minimum.  As always, which system has the "IQ advantage" will be a subjective measure, but most likely will go to the system that is able to render the greatest amount of detail, which will often be the system that has the largest native pixel count and/or best performing lenses at the f-ratios used to capture the images.

    The role of lens sharpness needs to be discussed in a bit more detail.  Note that for fully equivalent images, the lenses on the different systems do not use the same f-ratio.  Thus, while the available lenses for one system may be sharper than the available lenses for another system at the same f-ratio, we are not using the lenses at the same f-ratio for the same DOF, so this amounts to an improper comparison of the effect that the lens has on the captured image.  So, while one system may have superior lenses to another system, what matters, in terms of the captured image, is not how the lenses compare at the same focal length and f-ratio, but how the lenses compare at the settings that result in the same AOV and DOF.

    Sometimes, we can get away with a slower shutter speed, rather than a higher ISO, and thus have lower apparent noise for the formats that are able to use lower ISOs.  The following comparisons are examples of partial equivalence where shutter speed is traded for ISO in the larger sensor systems, which will allow them to obtain a cleaner image with more detail (pixel count and lenses permitting) while still maintaining the same AOV, DOF, and exposure:

    5DII at 50mm, f/5.6, 1/50, ISO 100
    D300 at 33mm, f/3.5, 1/125, ISO 100
    • 7
    D at 31mm, f/3.5, 1/125, ISO 100
    E30 at 25mm, f/2.8, 1/200, ISO 100

    Note the "danger" in comparing partially equivalent situations -- the lower shutter speed used to maintain the lower ISO will not always be feasible due to motion blur and/or camera shake, and is especially important to consider in lower light situations.  Regardless, being able to "safely" use a lower shutter speed with a larger sensor system is still a common scenario.  Of course, this can go in the opposite direction when one system has in-camera IS and/or in-lens IS that the other system does not, and motion blur is not a factor:

    5DII at 50mm, f/5.6, 1/50, ISO 1600
    D300 at 33mm, f/3.5, 1/50, ISO 640
    • 7
    D at 31mm, f/3.5, 1/50, ISO 640
    E30 at 25mm, f/2.8, 1/13, ISO 100

    In this scenario, we are assuming a static scene and that the 5DII, D300, and 50D are not using IS lenses, whereas the E30 has sensor IS, and can thus use a much lower shutter speed and ISO to obtain a cleaner image at the desired DOF / sharpness.

    Other times, we might rather use a more shallow DOF than a lower shutter speed to use a lower ISO and thus less apparent noise, either because we prefer a more shallow DOF, or we need a fast shutter but lower apparent noise is more important than the "side effects" (softer corners and more vignetting) of a more shallow DOF, but still the same AOV, shutter speed, and exposure:

    5DII at 50mm, f/2.8, 1/200, ISO 100
    D300 at 33mm, f/2.8, 1/200, ISO 100
    • 7
    D at 31mm, f/2.8, 1/200, ISO 100
    E30 at 25mm, f/2.8, 1/200, ISO 100

    Some may have noticed that the D300 and 50D use the same f-ratio and ISO, but slightly different FLs.  The reason is that all numbers are rounded to the closest 1/3 stop, and the difference between sensor ratios of 1.6 and 1.5 produce is less than 1/3 of a stop.  The same type of minor correction for FL will happen if framing and cropping the 4:3 images to 3:2 or framing and cropping 3:2 to 4:3, but will be too small to see an effect on the f-ratio or the ISO.

    Lastly, as noted a bit further up, it is important to note that systems with in-camera IS will often enjoy a distinct advantage over systems without in-camera IS, or IS lenses in the desired focal range, for handheld shooting of static scenes or handheld shooting where motion blur is a desired artistic effect.

     

     

     

     

     

    THE FIVE POSTULATES OF EQUIVALENCE

     

    PERSPECTIVE

    Perspective is how objects appear in relation to other objects, and the effect it can have on the image is dramatically demonstrated with these images.  Perspective is a function only of the distance of the camera from the subject -- the only role the focal length plays is in determining which portion of the scene we are capturing, not how the scene is rendered.  Technically, it is a function of the distance from the subject to the lens aperture, but as long as we are not at macro, or near macro, distances, it is sufficient to think of the perspective simply as the subject-camera distance since this amounts to a difference of only a few inches.  Two photos taken from the same position will have the same perspective regardless of the focal length or sensor size regardless of the FL (focal length) of the lens used.

    A good way to think of perspective is to consider two objects, one 10 ft from the camera, the other 30 ft from the camera.  If both objects are in the frame with the subject being the closer object, and we shoot at 50mm from 10 ft away, then the further object is three times as far away as the subject.  If, however, we step back another 10 ft and frame the subject in the same manner at 100mm, then, if the the further object is even still in the frame, then the subject will be 20 ft away and the other object 40 ft away -- only twice as far.  Conversely, if we get twice as close and frame at 25mm, now the subject is 5 ft away, and the other object is 25 feet away -- five times as far.

    Not only does the subject-camera distance change the perspective by changing the relative distances of subjects within the frame, it also changes, in a similar fashion, how widely separated they are in the frame.  In fact, when we use a longer perspective, we will often find that much of what was in the frame of a closer perspective is now outside the frame (the tree pics here are an excellent example of this).  Inasmuch as the scene as a whole matters, rather than simply the actual subject, perspective can be one of the most striking elements of a photograph.

     

     

    FRAMING

    For a given perspective, the framing can be thought of as the whole of the captured scene, and is synonymous with the FOV (field of view), which is a combination of the horizontal and vertical AOV (angle of view).  Unless otherwise specified, the term "AOV" refers to the diagonal AOV.  The distinction between AOV and FOV need not be made when systems share the same aspect ratio, but the greater the difference in aspect ratios, the more important the distinction between the terms.

    We can compute the horizontal, vertical, and diagonal AOVs (for rectilinear lenses at non-macro distances) with the following formula:

    AOV = 2 · tan-1 [ s · (d - FL) / (2 · d · FL) ]

    where

    d = distance to subject (mm = distance in meters · 1000 = distance in feet · 304.8)
    s = sensor dimension (mm)
    FL = focal length (mm)

    Alternatively, we can express the AOV as a function of the magnification where the magnification (m) is approximated by:  m ~ FL / (d - FL):

    AOV = 2 · tan-1 { s / [ (2 · FL) · (1 + m) ] }

    For infinity focus, both of these formulas can be reduced to:

    AOV = 2 · tan-1 [ s / [ (2 · FL) ]

    Solving for focal length, we have:

    FL = (s · d) / [ s + 2 · d · tan (AOV / 2) ] or, for infinity focus, FL = s / [ 2 · tan (AOV / 2) ]

    This means that the effective focal length (EFL) of the lens for a subject at a distance d (mm) is given by:  EFL = (d · FL) / (d - FL)

    For example, the diagonal, horizontal, and vertical AOV for infinity focus (m=0) on 35mm FF at 50mm is:

    Diagonal AOV for 50mm on 35mm FF = 2 · tan-1 [43.3mm / (2 · 50mm)] ~ 47°
    Horizontal AOV for 50mm on 35mm FF = 2 · tan-1 [36mm / (2 · 50mm)] ~ 40°
    Vertical AOV for 50mm on 35mm FF = 2 · tan-1 [24mm / (2 · 50mm)] ~ 27°

    Next, let's repeat for a subject at 3 ft (914.4mm):

    Diagonal AOV for 50mm on 35mm FF = 2 · tan-1 [ 43.3mm · (914.4mm - 50mm) / (2 · 914.4mm · 50mm) ] ~ 45°
    Horizontal AOV for 50mm on 35mm FF = 2 · tan-1 [ 36mm · (914.4mm - 33mm) / (2 · 914.4mm · 33mm) ] ~ 38°
    Vertical AOV for 50mm on 35mm FF = 2 · tan-1 [ 24mm · (914.4mm - 31mm) / (2 · 914.4mm · 31mm) ] ~ 26°

    Let's now compute the focal length for 35mm FF, 1.5x, 1.6x, and 4/3 for a diagonal AOV of 47° at infinity:

    FL for FF = 43.3mm / [ 2 · tan (47° / 2) ] ~ 50mm
    FL for 1.5x = 28.4mm / [ 2 · tan (47° / 2) ] ~ 33mm
    FL for 1.6x = 26.7mm / [ 2 · tan (47° / 2) ] ~ 31mm
    FL for 4/3 = 21.6mm / [ 2 · tan (47° / 2) ] ~ 25mm

    Note that these focal lengths are all proportional to the sensor ratio:

    50mm / 1.5 ~ 33mm
    50mm / 1.6 ~ 31mm
    50mm / 2 ~ 25mm

    Now we'll repeat for a horizontal AOV of 40° at infinity:

    FL for FF = 36mm / [ 2 · tan (40° / 2) ] ~ 50mm
    FL for 1.5x = 23.7mm / [ 2 · tan (40° / 2) ] ~ 33mm
    FL for 1.6x = 22.2mm / [ 2 · tan (40° / 2) ] ~ 31mm
    FL for 4/3 = 17.3mm / [ 2 · tan (40° / 2) ] ~ 24mm

    Once again, we see these are proportional to the sensor ratio:

    50mm / 1.5 ~ 33mm
    50mm / 1.6 ~ 31mm
    50mm / 2.08 ~ 24mm

    And for a vertical AOV of 27° at infinity:

    FL for FF = 24mm / [ 2 · tan (27° / 2) ] ~ 50mm
    FL for 1.5x = 15.7mm / [ 2 · tan (27° / 2) ] ~ 33mm
    FL for 1.6x = 14.8mm / [ 2 · tan (27° / 2) ] ~ 31mm
    FL for 4/3 = 13mm / [ 2 · tan (27° / 2) ] ~ 27mm

    And, again, these focal lengths are proportional to the sensor ratio:

    50mm / 1.5 ~ 33mm
    50mm / 1.6 ~ 31mm
    50mm / 1.85 ~ 27mm

    As noted further above, the EFL for a lens will change as a function of focal distance.  The following table demonstrates the effect of focal distance on the EFL of a 50mm lens:
     

    EFL for a 50mm lens Subject Distance
       
    50mm
    51mm 8.4 ft
    52mm 4.3 ft
    53mm 2.9 ft
    54mm 2.2 ft
    55mm 1.8 ft
    56mm 1.5 ft


    A useful relationship between focal length, sensor size, distance to subject, and the height or width of the focal plane in the photo is:

    FL = (s · d) / (s + h)

    where all variables below are given in mm (1m = 1000mm, 1 ft = 304.8mm)

    FL = focal length
    s    = sensor dimension (sensor height for landscape orientation, sensor length for portrait orientation -- given in the table just a bit further down)
    d   = distance to subject
    h   = height of frame

    For most situations, where d > 10·FL, a very good approximation of the relationship is given by:

    FL / s = d / h

    What might we use this for?  Let's say we have a landscape oriented photo of a model who is standing approximately 5' 8" (1727mm) taken on 35mm FF with an 85mm lens and would like to know what the subject distance was.  The calculation is as follows:

    85mm / 24mm = d / 1727mm → d = 6116mm = 20 ft.

     

    Listed below are tables of common SRs (sensor ratios) in relation to 35mm FF for images using the same AOV (see here for a more complete list).  When given in stops, the SR is rounded to the nearest 1/3 stop.  The reason that 35mm FF (24mm x 36mm) is chosen as a standard is due to its popularity in the days of film and the fact that there are more lenses made for this particular format which many of the smaller sensor DSLRs also use, but we can use any format as a reference.  Due to different aspect ratios, when cropping to the dimensions of the more square sensor, we use the ratio of the shorter dimensions of the sensor to compute the SR, and when cropping to the dimensions of the more elongated sensor, we use the ratio of the longer sensor dimensions.  In the case of 3:2 being cropped to 4:3, or vice-versa, this will result in less than a 1/3 stop difference.

    One side effect of cropping 3:2 images to 4:3 is that it greatly mitigates any softness that might show in the extreme corners.  However, we must also realize that this comes at the expense of removing 1/9 of the pixels from the image.  But as 3:2 systems generally have more pixels than 4:3 systems of the same generation, this can be done without any detail penalty when comparing systems.  Realistically, however, the extreme corners make up so little of the image, and are so close between systems anyway at the same DOF that it is only a consideration for the most hardcore of "pixel-peepers".  Please see this image as an example of what would be called a "huge" difference in the corners of different systems at the same DOF.  I simply see it as a non-issue, especially considering that the differences elsewhere in the frame matter more by far, but others see it as a serious disadvantage.  In any event, framing slightly wider and cropping to 4:3 will basically eliminate even that extreme case.


     

    Compacts / Cell Phones:
     

    Sensor Size

    Dimensions (mm)

    Diagonal (mm)

    Area (mm˛)

    SR

    SR (stops)

     

     

     

     

     

     

    1/3.2” (iPhone)

    3.42 x 4.54

    5.68

    15.5

    7.62x

    5.86 ~ 8

    1/2.7”

    4.04 x 5.37

    6.72

    21.7

    6.44x

    5.38 ~ 5 1/3

    1/2.5”

    4.29 x 5.76

    7.18

    24.7

    6.02x

    5.18 ~ 5 1/3

    1/2.33" 4.60 x 6.13 7.66 28.2 5.65x 5

    1/1.8”

    5.319 x 7.716

    8.93

    41.0

    4.84x

    4.56 ~ 4 1/2

    1/1.7”

    5.7 x 7.6

    9.5

    43.3

    4.55x

    4.38 ~ 4 1/3

    2/3”

    6.6 x 8.8

    11.0

    58.1

    3.93x

    3.95 ~ 4

    DSLRs / mirrorless:

    Sensor Size

    Dimensions (mm)

    Diagonal (mm)

    Area (mm˛)

    SR

    SR (stops)

     

     

     

     

     

     

    CX (Nikon) 8.8 x 13.2 15.9 116 2.73x 2.89 ~ 3

    4/3 (Olympus, Panasonic)

    13.0 x 17.3

    21.6

    225

    2.00x

    2

    APS-C (Sigma)

    13.8 x 20.7

    24.9

    286

    1.74x

    1.60 ~ 1 2/3

    APS-C (Canon)

    14.9 x 22.3

    26.8

    332

    1.61x

    1.38 ~ 1 1/3

    APS-C (Sony, Nikon, K-M, Pentax, Fuji)

    15.7 x 23.7

    28.4

    372

    1.52x

    1.22 ~ 1 1/3

    APS-H (Canon 1D series) 19.1 x 28.7 34.5 548 1.26x 0.66 ~ 2/3

    35mm FF (Canon 1Ds series, 5D; Nikon D3, D700)

    24 x 36

    43.3

    864

    1.00x

    0

    Leica S2 30 x 45 54.1 1350 0.80x -0.64 ~ -2/3
    Pentax 645 33 x 44 55 1452 0.79x -0.69 ~ -2/3
    MF (Mamiya ZD) 36 x 48 60 1728 0.72x -0.94 ~ -1

     

    Rather than relate to an arbitrary standard, such as 35mm FF, the SR between any two systems using the lengths of their respective sensors, or, more simply, either divide the SRs of the respective systems, or subtract their sensor ratios when using stops, using the values in the table above.  For example, the SR between a Canon 40D and Olympus E3 can be computed (for the same AOV) as 2.00 / 1.62 ~ 1.23 (2/3 of a stop to the nearest 1/3 stop, or, more simply:  2 stops - 1 1/3 stops = 2/3 of a stop).  Thus, 25mm f/2 ISO 100 on 4/3 would have the same AOV, DOF, and shutter speed as 31mm f/ 2.5 ISO 160 on 1.6x, since 25mm x 1.23 ~ 31mm, f/2 x 1.23 ~ f/2.5, and ISO 100 x 1.23˛ ~ ISO 160 (or, alternatively, f/2 + 2/3 stops = f/2.5 and ISO 100 + 2/3 stops = ISO 160).

     

    DOF

    The DOF (depth of field) is the distance between the near and far points from the focal plane that appear to be in critical focus and is a central player in the amount of detail rendered in an image.  It is also important not to confuse DOF with background blur (which is discussed further down).  There are many ways to represent the variables that effect DOF, but, in format-independent terms (which means that the same properties will result in the same DOF regardless of format), those variables are:

    • Perspective (subject-camera distance)
    • Framing
    • Aperture Diameter
    • Display Diagonal
    • Viewing Distance
    • Visual Acuity

    Alternatively, we can state the variables in format-dependent terms (this means that the same settings on different formats will yield different results):

    • Perspective (subject-camera distance)
    • Focal Length
    • F-Ratio
    • CoC

    Let's discuss how the variables for the format independent and format dependent cases result in the same DOF.  In both cases, the subject-camera distance is required (technically, it's the subject-aperture distance).  If we combine the perspective with focal length, we get the framing.  The aperture diameter is the quotient of the focal length and f-ratio, and the CoC is a catch-all that includes the display diagonal, viewing distance, visual acuity, and enlargement, and scales accordingly with each of these factors.  For example, doubling the display diagonal is the same as doubling the enlargement, which halves the CoC.  Doubling the sensor diagonal halves the enlargement, which doubles the CoC.  Note that neither number of pixels nor the size of the pixels figure into the CoC at all, except inasmuch as the size we display a photo depends on the size and/or number of pixels that make up the photo (such as when viewing 100% crops on a computer monitor).  The mathematics demonstrating the equivalencies is worked out a bit further down -- try to contain your excitement!  :  )

    Moving right along, only an infinitesimally small portion of the image is actually in focus (the focal plane), but as our eyes and brain cannot see with infinite precision, the focal plane is perceived to have some depth.  As we enlarge the image, we can more clearly see that less and less of the image is within focus, and this is how the DOF changes with enlargement.

    Of course, no lens is perfect, so the focal plane is not a plane at all, but rather a surface.  In some instances, the curvature of the focal plane (field curvature) can be extreme enough that what appears to be edge softness is actually a flat surface falling outside the focal "plane".  In addition, the focus falloff is gradual -- the closer elements in the scene are to the focal surface, the sharper they will appear.  The DOF is the depth from an ideal focal plane in which we consider elements of the scene to be "sharp enough".

    The number of pixels, or sharpness of the lens, on the other hand, have nothing to do with DOF. These are independent measures of image sharpness. A low resolution image displayed with large dimensions does not necessarily have low DOF -- it's just low resolution.  Most all (if not all) online DOF calculators are based on an 8x10 inch image (or any image with a 12.8 inch diagonal) viewed from a distance of 10 inches with 20-20 vision. Change any of those parameters, and you'll change the DOF (although, for example, if you double both the display dimensions and the viewing distance, these two effects will cancel each other out), and these parameters are accounted for with the CoC (circle of confusion) in the DOF formula(s).

    On the other hand, the DOF formulas do not include how closely we scrutinize and image.  In other words, two images might have the same DOF per the mathematical formulas, but if we scrutinize one image more closely than another (perhaps it is more interesting, for example), then the DOFs may appear different:

    Scrutinizing one image more critically than another has the same effect as looking at that image with a higher visual acuity than the another.

    However, for two images of the same scene displayed at the same size and viewed from the same distance that have the same computed DOF, then whatever the subjective impression of the DOF is for one image, it will be the same for the other image (although, as discussed above, it's easy to confuse "blurry" with "less DOF").

    As the DOF deepens, more of the image is rendered sharply, both because more of the image is within the DOF, and because the aberrations of the lens lessens as the aperture gets smaller -- up to a point.  Depending on the sensor pixel size and display size of an image, the effects of diffraction softening will begin to degrade the sharpness of the image more than the deeper DOF and lesser aberrations increase the sharpness.  However, the point diffraction softening outweighs a deeper DOF and lesser aberrations depends tremendously upon the scene and the lens sharpness.  It is common to read about "diffraction limited apertures", but these are based on a "perfect" lens and images where the whole of the scene lies within the DOF.  In other words, it is quite common to achieve a sharper and more detailed image that is past the "diffraction limited" aperture due to the deeper DOF including more of the scene.

    At the opposite end of the DOF spectrum, shallow DOFs serve to isolate the subject from the background.  However, while a more shallow DOF does lead to a greater background blur, it is not the only, or, in many instances, even the major player in the quantity of background blur, much in the same way that many confuse the bokeh (the quality of the out-of-focus areas of an image) with the quantity of the blur.  For example, if the subject 10 ft from the camera, 50mm f/2 will have the same framing and DOF on the same format as 100mm f/2 for a subject 20 ft away.  That is, the same distance from the focal plane will be considered to be in critical focus.  But the nature of the background blur will be very different -- the longer focal length will magnify the background blur.

    In fact, we can be more specific.  The amount of background blur (assuming the background is well outside the DOF) is proportional to the ratio of the aperture diameters.  For example, while the DOF for 50mm f/2 and 100mm f/2 will be the same for the same framing (in most circumstances), the background blur will be double for 100mm f/2 since the aperture diameter is twice as large for 100mm f/2 than for 50mm f/2 (100mm / 2 = 50mm, 50mm / 2 = 25mm).  A good tutorial on this can be found here.

    We can now make the following generalizations about the DOF of images on different formats for non-macro situations (when the subject distance is "large" compared to the focal length),  keeping in mind that aperture diameter = focal length / f-ratio, and assuming that all images are viewed from the same distance with the same visual acuity:

     

     
    • For the same perspective, framing, f-ratio, and display size, larger sensor systems will yield a more shallow DOF than smaller sensors in proportion to the ratio of the sensor sizes.

    • For the same perspective, framing, aperture diameter, and display size, all systems have the same DOF.

    • If both formats use the same focal length and f-ratio (and thus also the same aperture diameter), but the larger sensor system gets closer so that the subject occupies the same area of the frame, and the images are displayed at the same dimensions, then the larger sensor system will have a more shallow DOF in proportion to ratio of the sensor sizes.

    • For the same perspective and focal length, larger sensor systems will have a wider framing.  If the same f-ratio is used, then both systems will also have the same aperture diameter.  As a result, if the image from the larger sensor system is displayed at a larger size in proportion to ratio of the sensor sizes, or the image from the larger sensor system is cropped to the same framing as the image from the smaller sensor system and displayed at the same size, then the two images will have the same DOF.

     

     

    Let's give examples for each scenario using 4/3, 1.6x, and FF (forgive me for leaving out 1.5x, as it is so close to 1.6x as to be all but redundant to use for the purpose of examples, as I am repeating the process several times).  As noted earlier, the condition of "same display size" only requires the same diagonal length, rather than the same length and width.  This distinction is unnecessary when the systems have the same aspect ratio, but can sometimes be a factor when the aspect ratios are not the same (although the difference is indeed trivial between 4:3 and 3:2).  For example, if we print the 4/3 image at 9 x 12 inches (15 inch diagonal), then we would print the 3:2 aspect ratio images at 8.3 x 12.5 inches for the same diagonal.  In all cases, we assume the same viewing distance and visual acuity.  That said:

     

    • Let's say we are taking a pic of a subject 10 ft away, and use 40mm f/2.8 on 4/3, 50mm f/2.8 on 1.6x, and 80mm f/2.8 on FF.  All will have the same perspective, since the subject-camera distance is the same, and all will have the same AOV, since 40mm x 2 = 50mm x 1.6 = 80mm.  Since all are using f/2.8, then if we display the images at the same size, FF will have the least DOF, 1.6x will have 1.6x more DOF than FF, and 4/3 will have the twice the DOF of FF (1.25x more DOF than 1.6x).

    • Again, let's say we are taking a pic of a subject 10 ft away, but this time use 40mm f/4 on 4/3, 50mm f/5 on 1.6x, and 80mm f/8 on FF.  Once again, all will have the same perspective since the subject-camera distances are the same, and all will have the same AOV since 40mm x 2 = 50mm x 1.6 = 80mm.  The aperture diameters will also be the same since 40mm / 4 = 50mm / 5 = 80mm / 8 = 10mm.  In this case, all images will have the same DOF when displayed at the same dimensions.

    • This time, let's shoot the subject from 20 ft at 40mm f/4 on 4/3, 16 ft at 40mm f/4 on 1.6x, and 10 ft at 40mm f/4 on FF.  While the perspectives are different (since the subject-camera distances are not the same), the AOVs are the same since 20 ft / 2 = 16 ft / 1.6 = 10 ft, but FF will have the most shallow DOF, 1.6x will have a DOF 1.6x deeper, and 4/3 will double the DOF.

    • We now shoot the same subject from 10 ft away with all formats, but this time use the same focal length and same f-ratio as well (for example, 50mm f/2.8).  However, we print the 4:3 image at 9x12 inches (15 inch diagonal), the 1.6x image at 10.4 x 15.6 inches (18.75 inch diagonal), and the FF image at 16.6 x 25 inches (30 inch diagonal), and view the images from the same distance, then all will have the same DOF.  Note how the diagonals correspond to the focal multipliers of the respective systems:  15 in x 2 = 18.75 in x 1.6 = 30 in.  In fact, we could simply cut out the central 10.4 x 15.6 inch section from the FF image to match the 1.6x image, and cut out the central 9 x 12 inch section and it would match the 4/3 image.

     

    Let's now demonstrate the DOF equivalence mathematically.  As stated earlier, the DOF is the distance from the focal plane where objects in this zone are considered to be critically sharp.  However, the distance from the focal plane is not always an even split.  When the subject distance (d) is "large" compared to the focal length of the lens (non-macro distances), the far limit of critical focus (df) , near limit of critical focus (dn), and DOF can be computed as:

    • df ~ [H·d] / [H - d]

    • dn ~ [H·d] / [H + d]

    • DOF = df - dn ~ [2·H·d˛] / [H˛ - d˛]

    where d is the distance to the subject and H is the hyperfocal distance.  We can now compute the DOF behind the subject and the DOF in front of the subject:

    • DOF behind = df - d = / [H - d]

    • DOF in front = d - dn = / [H + d]

    Note that the smaller the subject-camera distance (d) becomes in comparison to the hyperfocal distance (H), the more evenly the DOF is split in front and behind the subject, since (H - d) and (H + d) are nearly equal for values of d that are small compared to H.  In other words, the common wisdom that 1/3 of the DOF is in front of the subject and 2/3 of the DOF is behind the subject is not always true.  This "rule" is valid when only when the subject-camera distance, d, is equal to 1/3 the hyperfocal distance,  H.  As the subject distance changes from that particular value, the 1/3 - 2/3 DOF split becomes a progressively less accurate description of the split of the DOF in front and behind the subject.  In another scenario, it is also interesting to note that as subject distance approaches the hyperfocal distance, the far distance of critical focus approaches infinity, and the near distance of critical focus approaches half the hyperfocal distance, thus giving infinite DOF beyond half the hyperfocal distance.

    Another interesting scenario to consider is that when the subject-camera distance, d, is small compared to the hyperfocal distance, H, then, for the same format, the DOF will be essentially the same for the same framing and f-ratio.  For example, 50mm at 10 ft has the same framing as 100mm at 20 ft on 35mm FF.  If we shoot the scene at f/2 in each case, we will get the same DOF since the hyperfocal distance is 137 ft for a CoC of 0.03mm (the value used in most DOF calculators for 35mm FF, which corresponds to an 8x10 inch print viewed from a distance of 10 inches), which is much larger than the subject distance of 10 ft.  However, were we instead to compare 24mm f/2 at 30 ft to 48mm f/2 at 60 ft (same framing), we would get a different DOF since the hyperfocal distance works out to 30 ft (for a CoC of 0.03mm), which is the same, rather than much larger, than the subject-camera distance.

    In any case, we can see that the DOF is a function only of the hyperfocal distance (H) and the subject distance (d).  The role of the focal length (FL), f-ratio (f), and CoC (c) are contained in the hyperfocal distance:

    H ~ FL˛ / (f·c)

    If we scale the focal length, f-ratio, and CoC by the sensor ratio (SR), the hyperfocal distance remains the same:

    H' ~ (FL·SR)˛ / [(f·SR) · (c·SR)]

        = [FL˛·SR˛] / [(f·c) · SR˛]

        = FL˛ / (f·c)

        = H

    Consequently the DOF is invariant for the same perspective, framing, and aperture diameter. By expressing H in terms of aperture diameter (a), angle of view (AOV), and the proportion of the sensor diagonal that the CoC covers (p), we get a format independent expression for the hyperfocal distance, and consequently DOF:

    H ~ a / [2·p·tan (AOV/2)]

    Thus, for non-macro situations, the DOF for the same perspective, framing, and output size is also the same.

    A consequence of a larger sensor means that a longer focal length is required for the same perspective and framing, as well as a larger f-ratio to obtain the same aperture diameter.  For example, let's consider images taken of the same scene from the same position with the same framing:

    5DII at 80mm, f/8 (aperture diameter = 80mm / 8 = 10mm)
    D300 at 53mm, f/5 (aperture diameter = 53mm / 5 ~ 10mm)
    7D at 50mm, f/5 (aperture diameter = 50mm / 5 = 10mm)
    E30 at 40mm, f/4 (aperture diameter = 40mm / 4 = 10mm)

    Since the perspective, framing, and aperture diameters are all the same, then for the same display size and viewing distance, their DOFs will also be the same.  As a side, if the shutter speeds are also the same (which will require a higher ISO for the higher f-ratios to maintain the same apparent exposure), then the images will be made with the same total amount of light as well, which will result in the same apparent noise if the sensors have the same efficiency.

    Another reason that DOF is so important, even if DOF, per se, is not an issue to the photographer, is that it is also intimately connected with sharpness, diffraction softening, and vignetting.  The reason that DOF affects sharpness is twofold.  First of all, as shown above, the DOF is directly related to the aperture, and the larger the aperture diameter, the greater the aberrations, and, in some instances, the greater the field curvature.  Secondly, a more shallow DOF means that less of the scene will be within the DOF, and, by definition, elements of the scene outside the DOF will not be sharp.  This second point is especially important, since, as noted earlier, DOF calculators usually base their calculations off a CoC for an 8x10 print viewed from 10 inches away.  Since so many now evaluate the sharpness of the lens on the basis of 100% crops on a computer monitor, the DOF that is seen at 100% on the computer screen is significantly more narrow than the DOF computed by the calculators.

     

    In addition to DOF and sharpness, the aperture is also intimately connected to diffraction Diffraction softening is the result of the wave nature of light representing point sources as disks (known as Airy Disks), and is most definitely not, as is misunderstood by many, an effect of light "bouncing off" the aperture blades.  The diameter of the Airy Disk is a function of both the f-ratio and the wavelength of light:  d ~ 2.44·λ·f, where d is the diameter of the Airy Disk, λ is the wavelength of the light, and f is the f-ratio.  Larger f-ratios (deeper DOFs) result in larger disks, as do shorter wavelengths of light (towards the violet end of the visible spectrum) so not all colors will suffer from diffraction softening equally.  The wavelengths of light in the visible spectrum differ by approximately a factor of two, so that means, for example, that blue light will suffer around twice the amount of diffraction softening as red light.

    Diffraction softening is unavoidable at any aperture, and worsens as the lens is stopped down.  However, other factors mask the effects of the increasing diffraction softening:  the increasing DOF and the lesser lens aberrations.  As the DOF increases, more and more of the photo is rendered "in focus", making the photo appear sharper.  In addition, as the aperture narrows, the aberrations in the lens lessens.  For wide apertures, the increasing DOF and lessening lens aberrations far outweigh the effects of diffraction softening.  At small apertures, the reverse is true.  In the interim (usually around a two stop interval), the two effects roughly cancel each other out.

    However, the relationship between diffraction softening and pixel density is largely misunderstood.  For a given sensor size and lens, more pixels always result in more detail -- that's a fact.  As we stop down and the DOF deepens, we reach a point where we begin to lose detail due to diffraction softening.  As a consequence, photos made with more pixels will begin to lose their detail advantage earlier and quicker than images made with fewer pixels, but they will always retain more detail.  Eventually, the additional detail afforded by the extra pixels becomes trivial (most certainly by f/32 on FF).  See here for an excellent example of the effect of pixel size on diffraction softening.

    Furthermore, the effects of diffraction softening affect all systems equally at the same AOV and DOF, not the same f-ratio.  However, that does not mean that all systems record the same detail at the same AOV and DOF.  Even though diffraction softening affects all systems equally at the same AOV and DOF, the system that began with more detail will retain more detail (although, as the DOF deepens, all systems asymptotically approach zero detail).

    While the diameter of the Airy Disk is the same for the same color and f-ratio, regardless of the sensor size, the effect of the diffraction softening is not the same across formats.  The reason is that the proportion of the sensor that is covered by the Airy Disk is not the same since the sensors are not the same size.  For example, while the Airy Disk on both 4/3 and 35mm FF will have the same diameter at the same f-ratio, the effect of the diffraction softening on 35mm FF is half as much as on 4/3, if the final images are displayed with the same diagonal dimension, since the 35mm FF sensor has twice the diagonal as the 4/3 sensor.

    Let's work an example using green light (λ = 530 nm = 0.00053mm).  The diameter of the Airy Disk at f/8 is 2.44·0.00053mm·8 = 0.0103mm, and the diameter of the Airy Disk at f/4 is half as much -- 0.0052mm.  For FF, the diameter of the Airy Disk represents 0.0103mm / 43.3mm = 0.024% of the sensor diagonal at f/8 and 0.005mm / 21.6mm = 0.012% of the diagonal  at f/4.   For 4/3, the diameter of the Airy Disk represents 0.0103mm / 21.6mm = 0.048% at f/8 and 0.005mm / 21.6mm = 0.024% at f/4.

    Thus, at the same f-ratio, we can see that the diameter of the Airy Disk represents half the proportion on FF as 4/3, but at the same DOF, the diameter of the Airy Disk represents the same proportion of the sensor.  In other words, all systems will suffer the same amount of diffraction softening at the same DOF and display dimensions.  However, the system that began with more resolution will always retain more resolution, but that resolution will asymptotically vanish as the DOF deepens.  In absolute terms, the earliest we will notice the effects of diffraction softening is when the diameter of the Airy Disk exceeds that of a pixel (two pixels for a Bayer CFA), but, depending on how large the photo is displayed, we may not notice until the diameter of the Airy Disk is much larger. 

    In addition, it's important to note that, for two sensors of a given size, the sensor with a greater pixel density does not suffer more from diffraction softening due to the smaller pixels.  We will simply notice the effects of diffraction softening earlier (at wider apertures) since we had more resolution to begin with as a result of the smaller pixels (presuming, of course, that we display the photo large enough that we can resolve individual pixels).  Of course, the effects of diffraction softening are also offset by lessening lens aberrations (to a point) as well as more of the photo coming within the DOF as we stop down.

    It is worth noting that some lens tests show much greater discrepancies in the effects of diffraction softening that we would expect.  Per the lens tests at www.slrgear.com, we can see huge disparities between f / 16 and f / 22 even with high end lenses like the Zuiko 50 / 2 macro (7 blades) and Zuiko 150 / 2 (9 blades), which are far greater than can be accounted for by the minor differences in the aperture shapes.  In fact, the Canon 100 / 2.8 macro and the Sigma 105 / 2.8 macro both have 8 blades, but show the same huge differences in sharpness from f / 22 to f / 32 on 1.6x as the Zuikos.  The most likely explanation for this is that at the minimum aperture, not all lenses are equally accurate.

    For example, consider a 50mm lens and a constant "aperture bias" of -0.5mm, that is, the lens always sets the aperture 0.5mm smaller than it should be (whether as a result sloppy quality control or sloppy design).  At f/4, the aperture diameter should be 50mm / 4 = 12.5mm.  However, a bias of -0.5mm would make the aperture diameter 12mm instead, resulting in a true f-ratio of 50mm / 12mm = f / 4.17 -- 1/9 of a stop off -- which is insignificant.  At f / 8, the aperture diameter should be 50mm / 8 = 6.25mm.  Again, a bias of -0.5mm would make the aperture diameter 5.75mm resulting in a true f-ratio of 50mm / 5.75mm = f / 8.7 -- 1/4 of a stop off -- bordering on significant, but still small enough to go unnoticed by most people.  At f / 22, however, the error becomes much more of an issue.  The aperture diameter should be 50mm / 22 = 2.27mm.  This time, the -0.5mm bias would make the aperture diameter 1.77mm for a true f-ratio of 50mm / 1.77mm = f / 28 -- 2/3 of a stop different -- very noticeable, and resulting in a considerable difference in diffraction softening at such small apertures.  Furthermore, the "aperture bias" need not be constant, and could vary depending on the selected f-ratio, producing even greater differences at small apertures.

    Of course, this hypothesis for the discrepancies in the effects of diffraction softening in the SLR Gear tests would need to be verified by comparing the exposures at different f-ratios.  In addition, the effects of vignetting can confound the issue at wide apertures, but, as demonstrated above, small errors in the aperture diameters are insignificant at wider apertures anyway.  Thus, we would test at small apertures, such as f / 22 and smaller, where the discrepancies due to aperture bias error are most noticeable.  Unfortunately, SLR Gear does not host (or even still have) these images to make such a comparison, so this conjecture needs to be verified.  Furthermore, it is not unlikely that an "aperture bias" could have been an issue with the particular lens they tested, but not endemic to all (or most) copies of the lens.  Furthermore, while it is well-known that the shape of the aperture plays a role in how the bokeh is rendered, it is unlikely that it plays any role in the degree of diffraction softening so long as the area of the aperture is the same.  Regardless, the effects of diffraction softening are not particularly significant until very small apertures.

    To get a DOF larger than what the lens can stop down to achieve, we either use a shorter lens and TC (teleconverter), or frame wider and crop to the desired framing.  The effect of a TC is to multiply the f-ratio by the same factor as the focal length.  For example, by using a 50mm macro at f/22 with a 2x TC, we would effectively be at 100mm f/45.  While more convenient than using a TC, the downside to framing wider and cropping is that it costs us pixels.  However, since the lenses for all systems can stop down to the diffraction limited resolution of the sensor, much of the detail lost by cropping would have been lost from diffraction softening regardless.  For example, an image at 100mm f/32 will have the same DOF and nearly the same detail as an image at 50mm f/16 taken from the same distance and then cropped to the same framing, despite having 1/4 the number of pixels on the subject.  This is because the f/32 image has already lost almost the same amount of detail due to diffraction softening, although it will still retain slightly more detail, due to the oversampling of a greater number of diffraction limited pixels still renders slightly more detail than a fewer number of larger pixels.

    Of course, it would be nice if we didn't have to stop down to increase sharpness for the portions of the image within the DOF, especially as this helps us avoid the effects of diffraction softening.  For example, let's say we are taking a pic of a landscape where the entire scene is within the DOF, even at f/2.8.  Thus, there would be no reason to shoot at a different f-ratio on different systems to maintain the same DOF.  However, the aberrations for larger apertures are more problematical than the aberrations for smaller apertures, and, once again, we realize that larger sensor system will require a higher f-ratio to maintain the same aperture diameter.  Thus, even though the DOF may not an issue per se, the aberrations, as well as vignetting, most certainly can be.

    Of course, one might ask why we simply don't choose the settings on each system that produce the "best" results for each.  Well, of course that is how we would use the systems.  The section on partial equivalence talks more about this.

    Putting it all together in terms of AOV, DOF, and shutter speed, let's look at some examples of equivalent settings from common cameras (using the same AOV) with all f-ratios and ISOs rounded to the nearest 1/3 stop, which show how the available DOFs on different formats differ:


    Camera

    Focal Multiplier

    Focal Length (mm)

    f-ratio

    Shutter Speed

    ISO

     

     

     

     

     

     

    Canon S3

    6.02x

    8.3

    f / 2.8

    1/400

    100

    Canon G7

    4.84x

    10.3

    f / 3.2

    1/400

    125

    Canon Pro1

    3.93x

    12.7

    f / 4

    1/400

    160

    Olympus E3

    2.00x

    25

    f / 8

    1/400

    800

    Sigma SD14 1.74x 29 f / 9

    1/400

    1000

    Canon 40D

    1.62x

    31

    f / 10

    1/400

    1250

    Nikon D300 1.52x 33 f / 11

    1/400

    1250
     Canon 1DIII 1.26x 40 f / 13

    1/400

    1600
    Canon 5D 1.00x 50 f / 16

    1/400

    3200
    Leica S2 0.80x 62.5 f / 20

    1/400

    5000
    Mamiya ZD 0.72x 67 f / 21

    1/400

    6400

     

     

    SHUTTER SPEED

    Shutter speed, obviously, is the length of time the shutter remains open to achieve the desired exposure.  The reason Equivalent photos have the same shutter speed is because the amount of motion blur will be the same for a given shutter speed.  However, there are many times when we would not compare formats with the same shutter speed since there is enough light to stop down to achieve the desired DOF and still have a fast enough shutter so that motion blur is a non-issue.  Under these circumstances, the larger sensor system can deliver both deliver more detail subject to lens sharpness and pixel count) in addition to a cleaner image since the lower shutter speed results in more light falling on the sensor for a given DOF.

    For example, let's say we are shooting a landscape.  The following settings would be likely candidates for a particular scene:

    5D2 at 24mm, f/11, 1/100, ISO 100
    D300 at 16mm, f/7.1, 1/250, ISO 100
    7D at 15mm, f/7.1, 1/250, ISO 100
    E5 at 12mm, f/5.6, 1/400, ISO 100

    While landscapes are a common scenario, and such a comparison is of practical value to most photographers, we must take care to note that this partially equivalent scenario is only valid when the shutter speeds are sufficiently high to avoid motion blur, and, if a tripod is not being used, to avoid camera shake.  If, instead, we were engaged in street photography near dusk, we would need to compare with fully equivalent settings since a sufficient shutter speed would be crucial to stopping motion blur for the required DOF:

    5D2 at 24mm, f/11, 1/100, ISO 400
    D300 at 16mm, f/7.1, 1/100, ISO 250
    7D at 15mm, f/7.1, 1/100, ISO 250
    E5 at 12mm, f/5.6, 1/100, ISO 100

    Alternatively, if one system has IS and the other system does not, then if motion blur is not an issue, then the IS system will be able to use the lower shutter speed if a tripod is not used on the non-IS system.  In this case, the system with IS will have the noise advantage for a given DOF since more light will fall on the sensor.

    So if we are using anything other than base ISO, then we cannot discount the importance of shutter speed in comparing systems, since the only time we would not be at base ISO is when shutter speed is a factor.  Under these circumstances, the only way for the larger formats to achieve less apparent noise than the smaller formats is by using a more shallow DOF, rather than raising the ISO, to maintain the necessary shutter speed.
     

     

     

    DISPLAY DIMENSIONS

    The display dimensions is the physical size of the viewed image, whether it be a print or on a computer monitor  People, including reviewers, tend to compare IQ at the pixel level, rather than the image level, which leads to incorrect conclusions about the image, unless the images are made from the same number of pixels.  If two images are made from a different number of pixels, if we are to compare them at the pixel level, then we need to properly resample the images to a common number of pixels.  We can increase the IQ of an image by increasing either the native pixel count or increasing the quality of the individual pixel.  Thus, if we compare two images with unequal pixel counts at the pixel level (often referred to as a "100% comparison"), we are disregarding the increase in IQ that comes from the additional pixels, which is discussed in more detail in the Megapixels:  Quality vs Quantity section of the essay.

    For example, let's say we wish to compare the Canon 1DsIII (21 MP) and the Nikon D3 (12 MP).  Comparing images from the two systems at the pixel level is the same as comparing 16x24 inch prints from the 1DsIII to 12x18 inch prints from the D3, which is hardly a fair comparison.  The best way to compare images is to compare in the manner that they will be displayed.  For example, if you are going to print the images, then print them and compare. Of course, this is impractical to do unless we already had access to both systems.  And, even if the reviewer provides us with the files to print ourselves, that is a bit of a pain, and certainly not a basis for an objective conclusion that we can share with others as all will not be using the same printer.

    So, what to do?

    The easiest solution is to resample both images to a common dimension that is at least as large as the larger image and then compare at the pixel level. The reason to compare at a dimension at least as large as the larger image is because downsampling the larger image will cause it to lose detail, which, I presume, is one of the qualities of IQ being measured in the comparison.  In addition, if we are comparing apparent noise, it only makes sense to do so at the same level of detail, so we would apply NR to the more detailed image to match the level of detail of the less detailed image.  Of course, care need be taken in the resampling process, since a poor resampling method can lead to incorrect conclusion about the comparative IQ between systems.  This is especially true when comparing apparent noise.  We simply cannot downsample the larger file to the dimensions of the smaller file.  We first need to apply NR (or a specific form of blur) and then downsample.  In any event, it is better to upsample the smaller image rather than downsample the larger image.

    Again, using the example of the 1DsIII vs D3 comparison, we could resample both images to 54 MP (300 PPI for a 20x30 inch print) and then compare at the pixel level. Of course, there's nothing magical about 54 MP, but we would like to incorporate some kind of "future-proofing" for comparisons with future cameras, and need some value larger than 21 MP, so 300 PPI for a 20x30 inch print sounds like a good "standard", as very few would print larger than this, no matter what pixel counts the future holds or what format they shoot.  Of course, for those that do print larger, they would, of course, want to compare at the larger output size.

    Another option would be for a reviewer to print the images at a variety of sizes (e.g. 4x6, 8x12, 12x18, 16x24, and 20x30 inches) on a top-of-the-line printer, scan the prints, and then compare the scans from the same size prints.  'Tis a pain, but probably the most fair way to compare, although I honestly don't know if it would produce different results than resampling the two images to the "appropriate" PPI for each print size.  And, of course, we cannot discount the effects of viewing images on non-calibrated monitors (I've seen more than one comparison where someone claimed the highlights of the image to be blown with several others chiming in that they need to calibrate their monitor).

    Thus, comparing images that have different pixel counts at the pixel level is a very poor way to compare the IQ between systems.  However, the closer the pixel counts are, the better such a comparison will approximate the actual differences. For example, it's reasonable to say that a comparison between the 12.1 MP Nikon D700, 12.1 MP Nikon D3, 12.3 MP Nikon D300, and the 12.7 MP Canon 5D would be easily "close enough" without resampling.  But when comparing the 10.1 MP Canon 40D, 10.1 MP 1DIII, or the 10.1 MP Olympus E3 to the aforementioned cameras at the pixel level, we are beginning to stretch a bit (12% difference in linear pixel count), and we are certainly stretching when comparing the 1DsIII to any of the above cameras at the pixel level for native image sizes (32% difference in linear pixel count between the 1DsIII and the D3, for example).

    So, while no comparison is without its potential problems, the easiest mistake to correct is to carefully resample images to a common dimension, as well as applying NR as necessary for comparing apparent noise, before comparing at the pixel level.

     

     

     

     

     

    IMAGE QUALITY

     

    The primary attributes of a camera, in no particular order, are:

    • IQ (Image Quality)
    • Operation (AF speed/accuracy, viewfinder, ease of use, etc.)
    • Available Lenses, Flashes, Accessories
    • Features (IS, video, liveview, etc.)
    • Ergonomics (size, weight, build, etc.)
    • Price

    While this section is concerned solely with IQ, it is important to note that IQ is but one attribute of a camera system.

    But what, exactly, is IQ?  That is difficult to define -- so much so that the term seems to lose any meaning in an objective sense.  However, as will be discussed later in this section, the subjective nature of overall IQ comes from how we value individual objective components of IQ.

    The first step in defining "IQ" is to make the distinction between "image quality" and a "quality image".  This distinction, in turn, requires us to differentiate between "eye candy" and "meaningful" photos.  The easiest way to distinguish between these two classes of images is that "eye candy" requires high IQ to be successful, whereas "meaningful" photos are successful regardless of the IQ.  Typical examples of "eye candy" would be sunsets, posed portraits, and macro.  Examples of "meaningful" photos are harder to nail down, since most photos would be "better" with "higher" IQ.  Nonetheless, it is important to acknowledge that there is a class of photography where image quality, as opposed to a quality image, is all but irrelevant (please see these outstanding photos).

    Furthermore, while one system may yield higher IQ than another, those differences may not be large enough to make any significant difference in the appeal of the photo, depending on the QT (quality threshold) of the viewer, the scene itself, the size at which the photo is displayed, and how closely it is scrutinized (see here for an interesting example of this point), and the processing applied to the photo.  In other words, it is not merely whether System A has "higher IQ" than System B, but under what conditions it has higher IQ (and, indeed, which has "higher IQ" may flip-flop, depending on the conditions), and if the IQ is "enough higher" to make any significant difference.

    For some photographers, IQ may be the most important aspect of photography.  For others, it may play no role at all or simply be an added plus.  But it is time well spent to reflect on just how important IQ is to our own photography, given that IQ is, at best, merely a means to achieving a quality image, and, at worst, completely irrelevant to the image.

    With all the disclaimers said, attributes of IQ include, but are not limited to:

    • Detail
    • Contrast
    • Color
    • Noise
    • Dynamic Range
    • Tonal Gradation
    • Bokeh
    • Flare
    • Distortion
    • Vignetting

    Attributes of IQ do not include:  subject, composition, focus accuracy, DOF, etc., which are attributes of system operation, available lenses, artistic design, and/or photographer skill.  Of course, it's important to note that operational differences, such as focus accuracy, can have a substantial effect on the ability to capturer a "high IQ" image.  In any event, the importance of each of these factors is to the IQ is not only subjective, but also highly dependent on the type of image and the display dimensions of the image.

    Another critical factor that needs to be mentioned is in-camera processing and PP (post-processing).  For example, comparing images from different systems based on in-camera jpgs tests the in-camera jpg engine (firmware) as much, if not more than, as it does the camera hardware.  For people who loathe PP, comparing systems on the basis of in-camera jpgs, of course, makes the most sense.  But such a comparison will have less to do with the IQ potential of a system and more to do with operational convenience.  However, for people looking to get the most out of their hardware, the "appropriate" format is RAW.  To this end, it is important that we choose a RAW conversion that portrays each system at its best.  Unfortunately, we are right back to the subjective with what looks "best", but the different conversions here demonstrate just how much of an impact the RAW converter can have.

    Thus, rather than say that the IQ of one system is "higher" than another, which only has any meaning if everyone is on the same page as to what constitutes "higher", it's better to be far more specific.  That is, we should instead say that A is sharper than B, or B has smoother bokeh than A, or A is less noisy than B for the same level of detail, or B has less distortion than A, etc.  In other words, we simply cannot assign point values to each criterion and get an average score, as not all criteria will be given the same weight by all people, and even feel exactly the opposite on some point (color, for example).

    For the most part, the individual components of IQ are objective.  The subjective nature of IQ comes from how we value the various objective measures of IQ.  For example, few people would dispute that sharper means "higher" IQ or that one image with "better" bokeh than another would have "higher" IQ.  However, let's say we have two images, one slightly sharper but with a less pleasing bokeh, and the other less sharp but with a more pleasing bokeh.  Which image has the "higher" IQ?  How we value these different objective elements of IQ is where the subjective comes in.

    That said, let's discuss the elements of the equipment that affect IQ (keeping in mind that the artistic, photographic, and processing skills of the photographer are, by far, the most important elements).  In no particular order, they are:

      The lens
     
    The sensor and supporting hardware
     
    The camera's internal involuntary image processing and/or jpg engine
     
    IS (image stabilization)

    where the sensor and supporting hardware can be further broken down into the following:

      Sensor Size
     
    Pixel Count
     
    Microlens Efficiency (percentage of light directed into the pixel)
     
    QE (quantum efficiency -- percentage of light falling on pixel that is recorded)
     
    Read Noise (additional noise added by the sensor and supporting hardware)
     
    CFA (color filter array)
     
    AA Filter (amount of blur introduced to inhibit moiré)

    Depending on the image, various elements of IQ will have varying levels of importance.  For example, apparent noise will usually play little role in ISO 100 images, edge sharpness will play basically no role in shallow DOF images, sharpness will play little role in images where motion blur is used for artistic effect, etc., etc.  So, while we can discuss the differences in IQ between systems, we cannot say which elements of IQ are more important than others.  Thus, while one system may have significantly more appeal on the basis of IQ to a vast majority, that does not mean that it will have higher IQ in the eyes of all.  Hence, when comparing the IQ of different systems, as mentioned further above, we are best served comparing specific elements of IQ, rather than trying to speak of "overall" IQ.

    So, is it simply a waste of time to compare IQ between systems?  Some believe so, but I disagree.  Some elements of IQ that most people value are predictable and quantifiable on the basis of the sensor and available lenses.  This essay discusses the relationship between the glass and the sensor in how they determine some aspects of IQ, in particular, detail, sharpness, contrast, vignetting, and apparent noise.  However, it is also important to note the aspects of IQ that this essay does not discuss, such as bokeh, color, and distortion.

    All these qualifiers and disclaimers said, a critical consideration to IQ is the individual's QT (quality threshold), that is, the point at which additional IQ makes no difference to the viewer at a given output size.  For example, System A may satisfy one person's QT at 8x12, but fail to do so at 12x18.  Or, one system may fail to satisfy a viewer's QT at any output size due to factors that are independent of the image dimensions (bokeh, for example).

    Regardless, it's still not possible to reach universal agreement that one image, or system, has higher IQ than another.  The reason for this is that images from two different systems are never identical, and whatever differences there are between them may appeal to different people differently, as people value different aspects of IQ differently.  For example, let's say one image is sharper everywhere than another, except in the extreme corners.  Which image has the higher IQ?  Different people will have different answers depending both on the type of photography they do or enjoy, and on the degree to which the differences in sharpness vary in the images.  Another difficulty is when one system shows higher IQ in one circumstance, but lower IQ in another.  Likewise, a sensor with a weaker AA filter will render a sharper image, but be more subject to moiré, so in some instances it will have higher IQ and in other instances lower IQ, depending on the scene.  In other words, there's still a great deal of subjectivity even within this very narrow set of parameters for IQ.

    Apparent noise is perhaps the most hotly contested of the IQ parameters.  As mentioned earlier, it is not simply the total amount of apparent noise, but the quality of the noise -- the distribution of the noise in the various color channels, the balance of color vs luminosity noise, and the grain of the apparent noise (which is a function of the native pixel count of the sensor).  But while noise can even have a pleasing effect in some images, I've never heard of anyone saying the same for pattern noise and banding.  Thus, a noisy image without pattern noise or banding will likely look significantly better than a cleaner image with pattern noise or banding, depending on the pattern, degree of banding, and how large the difference in total apparent noise is.  Furthermore, since different cameras will apply NR (noise reduction) to various degrees (some even to RAW files), it is important to recognize that while one image may be more noisy than another, it may also yield more detail, which may well matter more than the apparent noise.  If not, then we should apply NR and/or downsampling the more detailed image to match the level of detail of the less detailed image before comparing apparent noise.

    Another critical factor that needs to be mentioned is in-camera processing and PP (post-processing).  For example, comparing images from different systems based on in-camera jpgs tests the in-camera jpg engine (firmware) as much, if not more than, as it does the camera hardware.  For people who loathe PP, comparing systems on the basis of in-camera jpgs, of course, makes the most sense.  But such a comparison will have less to do with the IQ potential of a system and more to do with operational convenience.  However, for people looking to get the most out of their hardware, the "appropriate" format is RAW.  To this end, it is important that we choose a RAW conversion that portrays each system at its best.  Unfortunately, we are right back to the subjective with what looks "best".

    In addition, the IQ differential, while present, may not always be noticeable.  Let me explain that odd statement, since it would seem obvious that if you can't see a difference in IQ, then there is no difference in IQ.  Well, yes and no.  True, if for a particular image you cannot see a difference, then there is no meaningful difference in IQ.  But depending on how much processing is applied to the image, we may find that one image withstands that processing much better than the other.  In addition, as mentioned earlier, the IQ differential may not show at one print size, but become apparent at another.  Thus, the "hidden" IQ of an image may become apparent only under strong PP or larger prints.  It's for that exact reason that so many shoot RAW instead of jpg.  In many cases, the IQ differential between jpg and RAW conversions are completely insignificant, whereas in some cases, the differences are substantial.  So just as RAW has higher IQ than jpg, one system may have higher IQ than another, but that higher IQ does not always manifest itself.  Hence, while for one person the IQ difference is non-existent, for another, the IQ difference is significant. 

    Furthermore, it is fair to say that the elements of IQ that can be corrected with PP matter less than the elements of IQ that are resistant to PP.  For example, vignetting and distortion are easy corrections in post (and, in fact, can be automatically "corrected" in some RAW converters, along with even PF), whereas detail and DR are not.  Other attributes are intermediary -- apparent noise can be lowered, but this comes at the expense of detail.  Sharpness can be enhanced, but this comes at the expense of artifacts.  Still other effects are primary:  bokeh, flare, and moiré are often beyond the abilities of PP (unless one wishes to painstakingly hand-edit every portion of the image), but these attributes occur in only certain types of photos, and thus may not be important considerations to some people.  Nonetheless, despite the fact that there is no way around the subjective elements of IQ and the narrow definition used in this essay, generalizations about the IQ of different systems can be made.

    Lastly, I would like to more thoroughly address the issue of output size, which is a critical consideration in determining what level of IQ, especially in terms of sharpness and detail, really matters.  For many, if not most, the web is their primary venue for displaying images.  Thus, even a 1.3 MP image is good for a 1280x1024 presentation.  This begs the question as to how much resolution is "enough"?  One take on the issue is that the required PPI (pixels per inch) for a "high quality photo" is given by the formula PPI = 3438 / Viewing Distance in inches (click here for the full article), depending, of course, on the quality of the pixels.

    And, since I bring up printing, it's no small point that the printer and paper used for the final image is a critical component of the final image.  However, this topic of this essay is comparing camera systems (camera and available lenses), and it is presumed that we are taking care to process the images as best we can and use the same quality printer and paper for both systems.

    To that end, let's consider the PPIs for common print sizes (in inches).  The table gives the PPIs for 10, 20, 30, and 40 MP images for the with a native 3:2 aspect ratio / 4:3 aspect ratio cropped to the given print dimensions:

     

    Print Dimensions (inches) / PPI for a high quality photo viewed from 1.5x the diagonal of the photo

    PPI for 10 MP

    PPI for 20 MP

    PPI for 30 MP

    PPI for 40 MP

     

     

     

     

     

    8x10 / 179

    323 / 342

    457 / 484

    559 / 592

    646 / 684

    8x12 / 159

    323 / 304

    457 / 430

    559 / 527

    646 / 608

    11x14 / 129

    235 / 249

    332 / 352

    407 / 431

    470 / 498

    12x18 / 106

    215 / 203

    304 / 287

    372 / 352

    430 / 406

    13x19 / 100

    199 / 192

    281 / 272

    345 / 333

    398 / 394

    16x20 / 89

    161 / 171

    228 / 242

    279 / 296

    322 / 342

    16x24 / 79

    161 / 152

    228 / 215

    279 / 263

    322 / 304

    18x24 / 76

    143 / 152

    202 / 215

    248 / 263

    286 / 304

    20x30 / 64

    129 / 122

    182 / 173

    223 / 211

    258 / 244

    24x36 / 53

    108 / 101

    153 / 143

    187 / 175

    216 / 202

    30x40 / 46

    86 / 91

    122 / 129

    149 / 158

    172 / 182

     

    As we can clearly see, even 10 MP easily provides "enough" resolution for "high quality" prints viewed from a "normal" distance of 1.5x the display diagonal.  But this presumes that we are talking about "high quality" pixels.  This brings up the concept of "equivalent pixel count".  For example, let's say we have a camera-lens combo that resolves 2000 lw/ph.  This resolves 167 PPI for a 12x18 inch print, which is considerably less than the 215 PPI for a 10 MP file, and is independent of the actual pixel count of the sensor.  Thus, we are likely better served by using the lw/ph of the particular camera-lens combo divided by the display height of the photo to compute effective PPI for a photo, as opposed to the pixel count of the sensor.

    Other factors, such as noise, also affect the quality of the pixel.  We wouldn't expect 10 MP from a compact to deliver the same quality as 10 MP from a DSLR, for example, nor can we simply upsample a 10 MP image to 20 MP and expect a marked improvement (in fact, the utility of upsampling for the purposes of increasing print quality is of debatable value).  On the other hand, the reality is that for deep DOF pics at base ISO and smaller print sizes (8x12 inches and smaller, and even larger, depending on the scene and QT of the viewer), few will be able to distinguish, or care, about the differences in IQ between most formats.  An interesting article on that point is Michael Reichmann's "You've Got to be Kidding -- No, I'm Not".

    But, as we all know, "enough" and "high quality" are very subjective, which involve the visual acuity of the viewer, how closely a photo is viewed (not necessarily from 1.5x the display diagonal), and the viewer's personal standards.  Furthermore, it's worth noting that since Bayer arrays record only one color per pixel, the PPIs in the above table may be more accurately represented by pixel counts twice as large as given.  But, even then, 10 MP on a Bayer CFA will still satisfy the requirements for a "high quality" print viewed from 1.5x the display diagonal, lens permitting, of course.

    In any event, there are many elements to IQ that matter even at smaller print sizes, such as bokeh and DR.  Thus, even though one system may be able to output a sharper and more detailed image at larger dimensions, these qualities may not be as important as the other qualities of IQ, depending on the image.  Even the artistic consideration of DOF depends greatly on how large we display the photo and how closely we view it.  Since the artistic considerations often outweigh the technical considerations of an image, this brings us full circle back to the distinction between a quality image and image quality.

    So what IQ advantages does a larger sensor have?  Typically, the larger sensor system will deliver "higher overall IQ" over smaller sensor systems of the same generation in the following ways:

    • Larger sensor systems have less apparent noise for the same exposure and sensor efficiency
    • Larger sensor systems usually allow for the option of a more shallow DOF
    • Larger sensor systems often resolve more detail

    This, of course, invites the question as to when smaller sensor systems will have "higher IQ".  This can happen when:

    • The lenses designed for the smaller sensor system are sharp enough to resolve more detail than the larger sensor system
    • The lenses designed for the smaller sensor system are superior optics in terms of bokeh, flare, distortion, etc.
    • The smaller sensor system has an operational advantage such as more accurate AF or in-camera IS

    If we think about all these situations, it's easy to see how the balance of these advantages and disadvantages play into the type of photography a person does.  The more narrow the scope of photography, the easier it is for one system to be superior to another for the particular application.  The more broad the scope, the more difficult it is for a single system to be able to be a clear winner overall.

    Typically, cameras of the same generation have sensors that are close in terms of efficiency, but sometimes one camera may have a significant advantage over another based on its sensor (see here for a partial lists of camera sensors and their efficiencies).  Another important consideration is focus accuracy -- if the photo is OOF (out-of-focus), the other elements of IQ are moot points.  In addition, in-camera IS is a very powerful plus.  While many argue that in-lens IS is superior to in-camera IS (but neither are as good as using a chicken -- click here for a demonstration), it is definitely not superior if the lenses you use do not have it.

    Regardless of what IQ differences there may be between systems, we have to decide when, if ever, these differences in IQ have any meaning.  For example, a Suzuki GSXR-1000 may significantly outperform a Yamaha R-6 on a track, presuming the driver is skilled enough to make use of the extra performance.  But if all you use the bikes for is traveling back and forth to work or school, the difference in performance between the bikes is meaningless -- it is more a matter of comfort, gas mileage, and other aspects of the bike that matter more by far.

    Thus, it is my opinion that for the sizes that most people print (or display on the web), the differences in IQ between modern systems are insignificant for the vast majority, just as the performance differences in bullet bikes is insignificant for most riders.  Instead, the the primary consideration for most people when choosing a system is not the merely the IQ of the images it produces, but the the types of images the system can produce and the operation of the system.

     

     

     

     

     

    MYTHS AND COMMON MISUNDERSTANDINGS

     

    The motivation behind this essay on "equivalence" was prompted by the many myths about the differences between formats.  In particular, the following myths and misunderstandings are common:

     

    1) f/2 = f/2 = f/2

    This is perhaps the single most misunderstood concept when comparing formats.  Saying "f/2 = f/2 = f/2" is like saying "50mm = 50mm = 50mm".  Just as the effect of 50mm is not the same on different formats, the effect of f/2 is not the same on different formats.

    Everyone knows what the effect of the focal length is -- in combination with the sensor size, it tells us the AOV (angle-of-view).  Many are also aware that  f-ratio affects both DOF and exposure.  However, knowing how and why the f-ratio effects both DOF and exposure is important, especially for cross-format comparison.  The f-ratio is the ratio of the focal length and the aperture (entrance pupil) diameter.  For example, a 50mm lens with a 25mm aperture diameter will have an f-ratio of 50mm / 25mm = f/2.  Alternatively, a 50mm lens at f/2 has an aperture diameter of 50mm / 2 = 25mm.

    The "high status" attached to the f-ratio is that  the same f-ratio and shutter speed result in the same exposure.  Hence, the claim that f/2 = f/2 = f/2.  However, exposure is the density of the light falling on the sensor, not the total amount of light.  Within a format, the same exposure results in the same total amount of light, so the two can be used interchangeably, much like mass and weight when measuring in the same acceleration field.  For example, it makes no difference whether I say weigh 180 pounds or have a mass of 82 kg, as long as all comparisons are done on Earth.  But if makes no sense at all to say that, since I weigh 180 lbs on Earth, that I'm bigger than an astronaut who weighs 30 lbs on the moon, since we both have a mass of 82 kg.

    However,  in cross-format comparisons, the density of light falling on the sensor (exposure) is absolutely meaningless -- the total amount of light is the relevant measure -- since the total amount of light that falls on the sensor, combined with the sensor efficiency, determines the amount of noise and DR (dynamic range) of the photo.  And the total amount of light that falls on the sensor, for a given scene, perspective (subject-camera distance), framing (AOV), and shutter speed, is determined by the diameter of the aperture, as is the DOF.  For example, 80mm on FF,  50mm on 1.6x, and 40mm on 4/3 will have the same AOV.  Likewise, 80mm f/4, 50mm f/2.5, and 40mm f/2 will have the same aperture diameter (80mm / 4 = 50mm / 2.5 = 40mm / 2 = 20mm).  Thus, if we took a pic of the same scene from the same position with those settings, all three systems would produce a photo with the same framing, DOF, and put the same total amount of light on the sensor.

    To maintain the same shutter speed in an AE (auto exposure) mode, different systems will necessarily use different ISOs.  A common misunderstanding is that higher ISOs result in more noise.  This is simply not the case.  In an AE mode, a higher ISO results in a faster shutter speed and/or a smaller aperture diameter (higher f-ratio).  The effect of this is less light falling on the sensor.  It is the lesser amount of light falling on the sensor that results in more noise, not the higher ISO, per se (please click here for more details and examples).

    Thus, settings that have the same AOV and aperture diameter are called "Equivalent" since they result in Equivalent photos.  Hence, saying f/2 on one format is the same as f/2 on another format is no more useful than saying that 50mm on one format is the same as 50mm on another format.
     

    2) Larger sensor systems are bulky and heavy

    While larger sensor systems usually are more bulky and heavy than smaller sensor systems, this is not necessarily the case.  In fact, sometimes even the exact opposite is true.  The reason is not as much due to the larger sensor as it is due to the fact that the lenses designed for larger sensor systems usually have larger maximum aperture diameters than lenses designed for smaller sensors.  But when equivalent lenses do exist in both systems, such as the 35-100 / 2 on 4/3 vs the 70-200 / 4L IS on 35mm FF, the lenses for the larger sensor systems are usually lighter (but often longer for the telephoto lenses) and less expensive.  There are exceptions, of course, such as the Canon 300 / 2.8L IS on 1.6x vs the Canon 500 / 4L IS on FF.  But if reach is the primary consideration, and light gathering ability secondary, then smaller sensor systems will usually have a size/weight/price advantage, the most extreme example of this being the 12x zooms of compact digicams.  Thus, smaller sensor systems are usually significantly smaller, lighter, and less expensive when compared only for the same AOV, but not when compared for the same AOV and aperture diameter.
     

    3) Larger sensor systems have a DOF that is "too shallow"; smaller sensor systems have more DOF

    Larger sensor systems usually have the option of a more shallow DOF than smaller sensor systems with existing lenses, since the lenses for larger sensor systems usually have larger maximum aperture diameters for a given AOV.  However, the photographer using the larger sensor system can always stop down to get whatever DOF they need, keeping in mind that for the same perspective and framing, the effects of diffraction softening affect all systems equally at the same DOF, not the same f-ratio.

    For photographers who shoot in Auto, P, or Tv mode, the camera may well often choose a more shallow DOF on a larger sensor system than a smaller sensor system, and thus make the smaller sensor system more convenient for photographers who do not want to choose the appropriate f-ratio themselves by using Av or M mode, or by adjusting in the other modes.

    However, for the extreme end of the deeper DOFs, the lenses for smaller sensor systems will often, but not always, be able to go deeper.  At such DOFs, the effects of diffraction softening will be severe (although not necessarily apparent for images resized for web display).  For example, the 50/2 macro on 4/3 attains it's minimum aperture at f/22 (equivalent to 100mm f/45 on 35mm FF), the 60 / 2.8 macro on 1.6x attains it's minimum aperture at f/32 (equivalent to 96mm f/51 on 35mm FF), and the Canon 100 / 2.8 macro on FF attains its minimum aperture at f/32 (but the Sigma 105 / 2.8 macro stops down to f/45).  However, if the FF shooter needs deeper DOFs, they can simply use the same focal length as 4/3 or 1.6x, in conjunction with a 2x or 1.4x TC, respectively.  For example, the 50 / 2.8 macro used on 35mm FF attains its minimum aperture at f/32, and is equivalent to a 100 / 5.6 macro with a maximum f-ratio of f/64 if used with a 2x TC.  It is important to note that at such small apertures, that image degradation from the TC is insignificant in comparison to detail loss from diffraction softening.

    Of course, what's good for the goose is good for the gander.  That is, all systems can use TCs to increase their DOFs.  However, at f-ratios at and beyond f/22 (in terms of 35mm FF equivalents), the effects of diffraction softening are so strong that they overwhelm any other IQ differences between systems, keeping in mind that all systems suffer the effects of diffraction softening equally for the same DOF at a given level of detail.  Thus, at the extreme deep end of the DOF spectrum (f/22 and beyond on FF), there is virtually no difference between systems in terms of IQ.
     

    4) Larger sensors require sharper lenses

    In fact, the exact opposite is true.  First of all, as discussed in Myth #1, it is important to compare systems at the same DOF when discussing sharpness, since if we don't, the system with the more shallow DOF will have less of the scene within the DOF, and thus appear less sharp.  So, given that we are comparing systems at the same DOF, consider the following scenario:  we have two targets, each with the same number of squares on them covering the entire area.  Since both targets have the same number of squares, the squares on the larger target will be larger than the squares on the smaller target.  Thus, when trying to hit the squares on the smaller target, we need to be more accurate than when aiming at the squares on the larger target.  For example, if the larger target has twice the length and width of the smaller target, then we need to be twice as accurate to hit the smaller squares on the smaller target.  This is why the MTFs for 4/3 lenses use 20/60 as compared to 10/30 for FF.  In the same way, a lens on a larger sensor does not need to be as sharp as a lens on smaller sensor to resolve the same amount of detail.  Lenses that are able to resolve the same detail on sensors with the same number of pixels on their respective formats have the same relative sharpness.

    For example, consider the Zuiko 150 / 2 on 4/3 and the Canon 300 / 4L IS on 135, which are equivalent lenses on their respective formats -- that is, both have the same AOV and maximum aperture diameter.  The 150 / 2 tested at 49 lp/mm wide open, whereas the 300 / 4L IS tested at 36 lp/mm wide open.  Since the 4/3 sensor is 13mm tall, and the 135 sensor is 24mm tall, these figures translate to 49 lp/mm · 13mm/ih = 637 lp/ih for the 150/2 and 36 lp/mm · 24mm/ih = 864 lp/ih for the 300 / 4L IS.  In other words, even though the 150 / 2 is the sharper lens, the 300 / 4L IS out resolves it on the larger sensor.

    However, since lenses for FF can be used on both crop and FF, the manufacturer MTFs overstate the lens performance on cropped sensors since they are reported at 10/30 instead of 15/45 (1.5x) or 16/48 (1.6x).  Another issue, of course, is that MTF charts usually show only wide open and f/8 performance, which means we are unable to use these charts to compare at the same, or even similar, DOF.  Thus, we need to rely on other tests to make system comparisons.  However, all the web "lens tests" are actually system tests.  That is, they evaluate the performance of the lens on a particular camera.  The problem with this form of testing is that it confounds both the sensor resolution and the effect of the AA filter with the lens performance.  So, while system "lens tests" are more useful for comparing the actual systems tested, they need to be continually updated to reflect current sensor resolutions and AA filter strengths.

    Thus, the pixel count of the sensor, along with the AA filter, are both critical to system resolution.  Many subscribe to the myth that system resolution is largely limited by the lens in the case of modern sensors, but the reality is that current pixel densities are far from making systems "lens limited".  More pixels will always resolve more detail, but not necessarily as much more detail as the increase in pixels suggests.  For example, a 20 MP sensor will resolve less than double the detail (41% more linear resolution) of a 10 MP sensor unless the lens resolution is much greater than the sensor resolution.  As the pixel count continues to increase, the return becomes disproportionately smaller as the sensor resolution approaches the lens resolution.  However, as lenses get updated with newer and sharper versions, the limiting pixel densities will concomitantly increase.  In any event, for lenses with the same relative sharpness, the system with the greater pixel count will resolve more detail.  Thus, the level of detail in an image depends both the on how many pixels the sensor has and how well the glass is able to resolve those pixels.  This is also why FF glass will almost always perform better on FF sensors than on cropped sensors, unless the glass is significantly higher than the sensor resolution.  For the scenario when lens resolution is well beyond sensor resolution, the system performance will be primarily a function of the pixel count.

    One issue that the lenses for FF sometimes suffer is that the sharpness is not as even across the frame as it is for smaller sensor systems.  This is usually not an issue at larger aperture diameters, except for far off-center composition, since the corners are rarely within the DOF at large aperture diameters.  However, some lenses far poorly in the corners even at relatively deep DOFs, such as the Nikon 70-200 / 2.8 VR, which is discussed in Myth 5 below.  In these cases, while the FF system may resolve better in the central region of the image, they may resolve worse in the corners.  Thus, while the overall sharpness is often the same or better with FF, the issue of evenness of frame needs to be considered, and taken on a lens-by-lens basis.

    Thus, while smaller sensor systems usually have sharper glass, that does not necessarily give them sharper end results -- they need that extra sharpness just to "break even".  In practice, however, for the same AOV and DOF, the comparable glass for smaller sensors does not appear to hit that break-even point until the edges of the image, where, in some cases (usually UWA), they outperform FF glass in the extreme corners.  But since the larger sensor systems almost always have more pixels and resolve more detail in the central area of the image, if the extreme corners are not satisfactory, you have the option to frame wider and crop.  What is meant by "comparable glass"?  This is tricky, but generally lenses at, or near, the same price-point.  For example, we wouldn't call the Olympus 14-35 / 2 on 4/3 ($1840) or the Nikon 17-55 / 2.8 ($1130) on 1.5x "comparable" to the Canon 24-85 / 3.5-4.5 on FF ($310), since the prices are so different, even though they have nearly the same AOV and range of aperture diameters.  But we could call them comparable to the Canon 24-70 / 2.8L ($1255) even though the Olympus lens still costs significantly more and both have smaller aperture diameters, since we are now comparing the best against the best from each manufacturer that have comparable AOV ranges on their respective systems.  Alternatively, we could also call the Canon 24-105 / 4L IS ($1060) "comparable" since it is also "top glass" for Canon FF, has the same aperture diameter, and a zoom range that includes the AOVs of the aforementioned competitors' lenses.

    When comparing systems, then, we must carefully articulate the reasons for choosing the lenses used in the comparison, since those reasons may be "invalid" depending on the use of the lens as it is rare to find two lenses from two different systems that enjoy the same range of AOV, aperture diameters, and price.
     

    5) Larger sensor systems have softer edges and more vignetting than smaller sensor systems

    Once again, as discussed in Myth #1, this belief is a result of people comparing systems at the same f-ratio rather than the same aperture diameter.  At the same f-ratio, the larger sensor system will have a larger aperture diameter, and thus a more shallow DOF, which will result in the areas of the scene outside the DOF being OOF (out-of-focus), as well as greater vignetting.  A more fair comparison for edge sharpness is to compare at the same DOF, or, often even more appropriate, at the lenses' sharpest settings, since it is rare that edge sharpness plays a role in high ISO photography.  However, it is disingenuous to compare edge sharpness and vignetting by artificially handicapping the larger sensor system with the same f-ratio as the smaller sensor system.

    Of course, as we know, glass does not have the same sharpness across the image.  For example, the issue of telecentricity for UWAs causes a sharp drop in the MTF for many UWAs in 35mm FF lenses (the Nikon 14-24 / 2.8 being a remarkable exception).  Thus, the image may be "sharp enough" in the center, but too soft in the corners.  This is what happens when comparing, for example, 4/3 lenses with 35mm FF lenses.  The 4/3 lenses are sharper than the 35mm lenses (on average), but they need to be sharper to resolve the smaller pixels of their sensors.  And while 35mm FF glass is easily "sharp enough" for the center of the image, it is sometimes not "sharp enough" for the extreme corners (for some UWAs) even at the same DOF, despite the larger pixels.  Thus, near the edges, the sharper glass on a smaller sensor may outperform the less sharp glass on a larger sensor, but the amount of the corners where this reversal in sharpness occurs is dependent on which lenses are being compared, and must be taken on a lens by lens basis.  In fact, sometimes the larger sensor system will have the sharper corners (the evidence section of this essay gives examples).

    An interesting case is the earlier version of the Nikon 70-200 / 2.8 VR which, according to a test conducted by DPR, performs significantly better in the corners on 1.5x than it does on FF even for the same perspective, FOV, and DOF (although, again, the rest of the image is sharper on FF).  However, the reviewer noted that this is almost certainly since the lens was optimized for 1.5x, since Nikon had no FF DSLRs, or even plans for one, at the time of the introduction of the lens, and is quite different from how Canon's 70-200 / 2.8L IS performs.  Another good example is the Canon 24 / 1.4L II on 1.6x vs the Canon 35 / 1.4L on FF.  The two have nearly identical performance at the same DOF in all areas that www.slrgear.com tests.  Of course, the 24 / 1.4L II is a newer lens and costs significantly more than the 35 / 1.4L, but such a comparison is fair to make since they are both top level lenses with the same FOV for their respective systems.  The question, then, is how would the 24 / 1.4L II on a 50D compare to a 35 / 1.4L on a 5D II?  The answer is that the 5DII image would likely deliver more detail, since it has more (and larger) pixels, as well as deliver an optional more shallow DOF, if desired.

    However, back to the UWA situation, there is another angle to this story.  DSLRs with a 3:2 aspect ratio must shoot wider and then crop to match the FOV of a 4:3 aspect ratio, and this cropping all but eliminates the soft corners, if they even exist.  For example, for a Canon 5D to match the perspective, framing, and DOF of an Olympus E3 shooting at 7mm f/4, it would have to shoot at 12.5mm f/7.1 and crop to a 4:3 aspect ratio.  This would leave 10 MP on the 5D image, which would still match the pixel count and framing of the E3 image, while eliminating the extreme corners.  Likewise, the Canon 5DII (FF) has more pixels than the Canon 50D (1.6x), which also gives it more cropping latitude.  However, a 50D has more pixels than a 5D, so the 5D would have no such luxury, except if the lens were unable to sufficiently resolve the smaller pixels of the 50D.  In this case, a cropped image from the 5D, despite having less pixels, would likely retain the same, or even more detail, in the instances that we would need to frame wider and crop the corners out.

    Stopping the larger system's lens down to normalize the DOF has the additional benefit of increasing the sharpness of the lens (especially in the corners) and reducing vignetting.  Many 4/3 proponents like to cite their glass as being "sharp wide open" with no significant vignetting.  However, "wide open" for 4/3 is "stopped down" for 35mm FF.  For example, let's compare the Leica 25 / 1.4 on 4/3 with the Canon 50 / 1.4 on 35mm FF.  With both lenses at f/1.4, the 4/3 lens will surely have the superior image in terms of sharpness and vignetting, but the 4/3 image with have a DOF that is be two stops deeper.  Stopping the Canon lens down to the same DOF (f/2.8) will produce a sharper image (even in the corners) with the same or even less vignetting.  If the 35mm FF system must also raise the ISO two stops to match the shutter speed, all this means is that the 35mm FF system loses its advantage in apparent noise, but it is not at a disadvantage for apparent noise (for sensors with the same efficiency and images with the same level of detail).

    Of course, this is not to say that the corners and vignetting are exactly the same between systems at the same DOF -- it most certainly varies from lens to lens.  However, it makes little sense to compare corners and vignetting at different DOFs, and it is because people compare at the same f-ratio rather than the same DOF, that the myth of 35mm FF having softer edges and greater vignetting exists.
     

    6) Assuming "equivalent" means "equal"

    It is important to distinguish between "equivalent" and "equal" -- "equal" is a much stronger condition than "equivalent".  As stated in the Definition of Equivalence, equivalent images are images that share the following five attributes:

    Perspective
    Framing
    DOF
    Shutter Speed
    Display Dimensions

    As a corollary, equivalent lenses are lenses that produce equivalent images on different systems (same AOV and aperture diameter).  If the images were "equal", then they would also render the same amount of apparent noise, detail, the same color, the same bokeh, etc., etc., etc.  These elements of IQ are what make "equal" a much stronger condition than "equivalent", and are a function of the sensor efficiency, pixel count, lens design, AA filter, CFA, etc., etc., etc.  However, for different systems, equivalent images will be the images that look most similar in appearance.

    The most talked about aspect of equivalent images is that the apparent noise will be the same.  This notion is predicated on the premise that since equivalent images are made from the same total amount of light, then the photon noise will be the same.  However, differences in sensor efficiencies will affect not only how efficiently the sensor captures the light that falls on it (and thus affect the photon noise), but also how efficiently that noise is processed (read noise).  In practice, differences in sensor efficiencies for sensors of a given generation are much less significant than the total amount of light that falls on the sensor, so equivalent images will have roughly the same total apparent noise.

    There is one way to get images that are "equal", however -- if the larger sensor system had the same pixel density as the smaller sensor system, and we could use the same lens on both systems, then we could get equal images from both systems using the same settings (focal length, f-ratio, shutter speed, and ISO) and cropping the larger sensor image to the framing of the smaller sensor image.  While using the same lens and settings on the larger sensor system sometimes makes sense for macro and long telephoto, it is a rather odd way to use a camera in any other application.
     

    7) Assuming Equivalence is based on equal noise

    The most controversial visual property of equivalent images is that people incorrectly assume that Equivalence is based on equal noise.  Equivalence is based on the five principles listed above, which do not include noise, nor any other elements of IQ.  The primary elements in image noise, in order, are:

      The Total Amount of Light that falls on the sensor (Total Light = Exposure · Sensor Area)
     
    The sensor efficiency

    Other factors, such as ISO, pixel count, and lens sharpness also play a role in apparent noise, but are secondary compared to the above three factors.  Since equivalent images are made from the same total amount of light, and sensors of the same generation often (but not always) have similar efficiency (see here), equivalent photos from cameras of the same generation will usually have similar apparent noise.  People commonly believe that larger sensor systems have less apparent noise because they have better sensors, when, in fact, it is instead because they collect more total light for a given exposure.

    Thus, breaking the properties of Equivalence down into the properties of the photo, lens, and sensor:

      Photos with the same perspective, framing, display dimensions, and aperture diameter will have the same DOF
     
    If we also include same shutter speed, then they will also have the same motion blur / camera shake, as well as be made from the same total amount of light
     
    Differences in noise for equivalent images will primarily be a function of sensor efficiency, which are often (but not always) similar for sensors of the same generation

     

    8) Larger sensor systems have less noise because they have larger pixels / higher ISOs result in more noise

    The reason so many feel that smaller pixels result in more apparent noise is that smaller sensor systems usually have smaller pixels than larger sensor systems.  While smaller pixels, individually, will be more noisy (for a given exposure and sensor efficiency) because they record less light, there are more pixels.  That is, the noise in a photo is not determined by a single pixel, but the combined effect of all the pixels.   So, a greater number of smaller pixels will capture the same total amount of light as a fewer number of larger pixels, and there is no correlation between pixel size and pixel efficiency (for CMOS sensors -- there may be a correlation for CCD sensors).

    Thus, the sensor with more pixels will record more detail, but will appear more noisy at 100% view, because each pixel, individually, collects less light.  However, that additional detail afforded by the smaller pixels can be traded for less noise by the application of NR (noise reduction).  So, when compared at the same level of detail, the photo made from more pixels (for a given exposure and sensor size and efficiency) will even be less noisy than the photo made from larger pixels, since NR removes noise more efficiently that merely downsampling the photo made from more pixels to the dimensions of the photo made from fewer pixels (binning), as demonstrated in this example.

    The shutter speed and the diameter of the aperture that determine the total amount of light that falls on the sensor, and the size of the sensor determines how much light the sensor can absorb (for a given efficiency).  Hence, the apparent noise is determined by the total amount of light that makes up the photo (for a given sensor efficiency and level of detail).  Having fewer larger pixels gathers the same total amount of light as more smaller pixels.  But having more smaller pixels allows the option of a more detailed photo that is necessarily more noisy, a cleaner photo at the same level of detail, or a more detailed photo at the same level of noise (see here for an example of noise vs detail and here for an example of trading detail for less noise via NR).

    For fully equivalent images, where both the DOF and shutter speeds are the same, however, all systems will collect the same amount of light.  The system that will have the lesser amount of noise will be the system that has the more efficient sensor and/or the system that resolves more detail since that additional detail can be traded, via NR, for less noise.

    Furthermore, the belief that higher ISOs result in more noise is a common misinterpretation as to what is actually taking place.  Yes, higher ISO images usually result in more apparent noise, but this is because using a higher ISO results in either a faster shutter speed and/or a smaller aperture for a given apparent exposure.  The effect of either of these is to put less light on the sensor.  It is the lesser amount of light falling on the sensor that results in more apparent noise, not the higher ISO per se.  In fact, the higher ISO results in slightly less noise for a given exposure (that is, for a given f-ratio and shutter speed, the higher ISO setting will result in less apparent noise) for some sensors.  For example, if we took a pic of a scene at ISO 1600, and then took a pic of the same scene with the same f-ratio and shutter speed at ISO 100, and pushed the ISO 100 pic 4 stops in post to achieve the same apparent exposure, it would be more noisy than the ISO 1600 pic on some sensors (discussed in more detail here, with some examples linked).  The same would be true if we took a pic at ISO 1600 and pulled it down four stops to match the apparent exposure of the ISO 100 pic, but at the expense of four stops of highlight detail.  So, the cause of the greater apparent noise is the lesser amount of light falling on the sensor, not the higher ISO.

    Thus, while it is not news to anyone that a higher exposure results in less apparent noise, it is news to many that it is not the higher ISO setting of lower exposures that causes more noise.  Instead, it is the lesser amount of light falling on the sensor.  To minimize the apparent noise in an image, we want to maximize the exposure within the constraints of how much of the scene we are willing to oversaturate, the DOF / sharpness we wish to achieve, and the shutter speed necessary to offset motion blur and/or camera shake.


    9) Comparing images at 100% rather than the same display dimensions

    It is common for people to compare images at 100% -- that is, to compare images at the pixel level.  However, such a comparison would only make sense if each image was made from the same number of pixels.  For example, it makes no sense to compare a 4x6 print with an 8x12 print, just as it makes no sense to compare, for example, a 2000 x 3000 pixel image with a 4000 x 6000 image.  Comparing images that have different pixel counts causes a "scaling error".  That is, the photo made from more pixels is being viewed with greater enlargement, which leads to incorrect conclusions about noise and sharpness.

    To properly determine which system has less noise, we need to compare so that the common elements are displayed at the same size.  Furthermore, we need to apply NR (noise reduction) to the more detailed image until it matches the amount of detail in the less detailed image, and then display the two photos with the same diagonal dimension.  Otherwise, we may find ourselves in the position of saying that one image is more noisy than the other, but, due to its greater detail, is actually more pleasing.  In other words, "more noisy" could mean "higher IQ" -- that is, the more detailed photo resolves both the inherent detail and noise more clearly, whereas the less detailed photo merely blurs both the noise and detail (see these photos for a demonstration).

    The reason we display with the same diagonal dimension, as opposed to the same area, is because if we are comparing photos with different aspect ratios, then the same diagonal display will result in the common elements in both photos being displayed at the same size if the photos were taken of the same scene from the same position with the same AOV.

    Some argue that the process of resampling the image with the smaller pixel count to the dimensions of the image with the larger pixel count is unfair to the smaller image since the upsampling introduces a new variable into the comparison.  However, this variable is always introduced regardless.  That is, we either resize an image for web display, or the printer will automatically interpolate the image for printing, regardless of whether we upsample or not.  The most fair method for comparing at 100% is to carefully resample both images to a common dimension, so that neither system is favored.
     

    10) Larger sensor systems gather more light and have less noise than smaller sensor systems

    For the same AOV, lenses for larger sensor systems often have larger aperture diameters which gather more light than smaller sensor systems, and thus deliver less noisy images even if the sensor for the larger sensor system is less efficient (to a degree).  However, choosing a larger aperture diameter also results in a more shallow DOF, more vignetting, and softer corners.  For fully equivalent images, however, all systems gather the same total amount of light.  Thus, any differences in the apparent noise and dynamic range will be due to differences in the sensor efficiencies, and, contrary to popular belief, larger sensors are not necessarily more efficient than smaller sensors.  On the other hand, in situations where motion blur is not an issue, or even desirable, systems that have in-camera IS or IS lenses can gather more light by using a slower shutter speed and achieve an advantage in apparent noise over other systems lacking IS when a tripod is not used.

     

     

     

     

     

    EXPOSURE, APPARENT EXPOSURE,  AND TOTAL LIGHT

     

    As mentioned in the introduction of this essay, the concept of Equivalence is controversial because it replaces the paradigm of exposure, and its agent, f-ratio, with a new paradigm of total light, and its agent, aperture.  The first step in explaining this paradigm shift is to define exposure, apparent exposure, and total light.

    The exposure is the total light per area (photons / mm˛) that falls on the sensor while the shutter is open, which is usually expressed as the product of the illuminance of the sensor and the time the shutter is open (lux · seconds).  The only factors in the exposure are the scene luminance, t-stop (where the f-ratio is often a good approximation for the t-stop), and the shutter speed (note that neither sensor size nor ISO are factors in exposure).  For example, two pics of the same scene, one at f/2.8 1/200 ISO 100 on 4/3 and another at f/2.8 1/200 ISO 400 on FF will both have the same exposure, since the same number of photons per unit area will fall on the sensor, but the FF photo will appear much brighter as a result of an analog gain and/or digital push/pull applied by the camera due to the higher ISO.

    The apparent exposure is the brightness of the final image after an amplification is applied to the exposure either by adjusting the ISO, or by a push/pull in the RAW conversion, and is often what people mean when they say "exposure".   Using the same example as above, pics of the same scene at f/2.8 1/200 ISO 100 on 4/3 and f/5/6 1/200 ISO 400 on FF will both have the same apparent exposure, despite their exposures being two stops apart.  The only role that ISO plays in exposure is inasmuch as changing the ISO setting on the camera in an AE (Auto Exposure) mode indirectly results in the camera choosing a different f-ratio, shutter speed, and/or flash power, any of which will change the exposure.  The ISO control on the camera can also be linked to an analog gain (which results in less read noise for higher ISOs with cameras that use non-ISOless sensors) and is linked to a digital push/pull on all cameras.

    Lastly, the total light is the total amount of light that falls on the portion of the sensor used to for the photo during the exposure:  Total Light = Exposure · Effective Sensor Area.  Equivalent photos will have the same total light, but, for different formats, necessarily have different exposures, since the same total light distributed over sensors with different areas will result in a different exposure.  Using the same example above, pics of the same scene at f/2.8 1/200 ISO 100 on 4/3 and f/5/6 1/200 ISO 400 on FF, the same total light will fall on each sensor.

    In terms of IQ, the total light is the relevant measure, because both the noise and DR (dynamic range) of a photo are a function of the total amount of light that falls on the sensor (along with the sensor efficiency, all discussed, in detail, in the next section).

    For a given scene, perspective, and framing, the total light depends only on the aperture diameter and shutter speed (as opposed to the f-ratio and shutter speed for exposure).  Fully equivalent images on different formats will have the same apparent exposure and be created with the same total amount of light.  Thus, the same total amount of light on sensors with different areas will necessarily result in different exposures on different formats, and it is for this reason that exposure is a meaningless measure in cross-format comparisons.

    Mathematically, we can express these three quantities rather simply:

    • Exposure                  = Sensor Illuminance · Time = Total Light / Effective Sensor Area

    • Apparent Exposure = Sensor Illuminance · Time · Amplification

    • Total Light              = Sensor Illuminance · Time · Effective Sensor Area

    Note that we can represent both apparent exposure and total light as functions of exposure:

    • Apparent Exposure = Exposure · Amplification

    • Total Light              = Exposure · Effective Sensor Area

    The luminance of the scene and the t-stop (approximated by the f-ratio) determine the sensor illuminance, and is measured in the units of  photons / second / mm˛ (or, equivalently, lux), and the shutter speed determines the time (seconds).  Hence, the units of exposure are photons / mm˛ (or, equivalently lux·seconds, where 0 Ev = 2.5 lux·seconds), and the total light is measured in units of photons (or, equivalently, lumen·seconds).

    The ISO is the amplification applied to the signal.  For example, at ISO 1600, the gain is 1600 / 100 = 16x for a camera with a base ISO of 100.  The amplification can either be analog or digital, with analog gain resulting in less noise for some cameras (see here for an example with the Canon 5D), but at the risk of more blown highlights (discussed in more detail here).  It is important to note that not all cameras apply the same amount of amplification for the same ISO.  For example, f/5.6 1/100 ISO 400 on one camera may not show the same brightness as f/5.6 1/100 ISO 400 on another camera.  The ISO standards allow the manufacturers a lot of latitude in their definition of ISO.

    The total light is simply the total amount of light that is used to make up the photo, and is measured in  lumen·seconds, or, equivalently, photons.  The effective sensor area refers to the portion of the sensor that is being used for the final photo, or, when comparing photos with different aspect ratios, the area that both have in common.  For example, if we are cropping a FF sensor (36mm x 24mm) to 1:1, then the effective sensor area is 24mm x 24mm = 576mm˛.  Alternatively, if we were comparing a 3:2 FF photo to a 4:3 4/3 photo, the framing will be slightly different.  In this case, assuming the photos were taken with the same perspective and AOV, the effective sensor areas for the purposes of a noise comparison would be 831mm˛ for the FF sensor and 208mm˛ for the 4/3 sensor, since those areas are the respective areas of the sensors that cover the common scene in both photos.

    The role of exposure in digital photography is nothing more than noise and/or highlight control.  A higher exposure will use more light to create the image, resulting in less apparent noise.  However, the more light we use to create the image, the more we will run the risk of oversaturation (blowing highlights).  The only way to increase the exposure is by using a slower shutter speed (thus increasing the chance/effects of motion blur and/or camera shake), using a wider aperture (thus decreasing the DOF and reducing the image detail/sharpness, particularly in the corners), or increasing the amount of light on the scene (e.g. flash photography).

    Thus, it does not necessarily make sense to compare systems with the same exposure.  For example, if we compare systems at the same f-ratio and shutter speed (same exposure), the larger sensor system will have a more shallow DOF, which may, or may not, be desirable.  If we instead compare systems at the same exposure and DOF, the larger sensor system will have to use a larger f-ratio and a concomitantly lower shutter speed, which will increase the risk of motion blur and/or camera shake.

    However, if we instead compare systems with the same total amount of light, and thus different exposures, then the DOF and effects of motion blur / camera shake will be the same.  Any differences in apparent noise will be due to differences in the sensor efficiencies, and not because the larger sensor system will require a higher ISO for the same apparent exposure.  In other words, for equivalent images, the visual properties will be rather similar, but for non-equivalent images, the visual properties may be radically different.  Sometimes this difference will favor the larger sensor system, sometimes it will not -- it depends on the scene.  However, if non-equivalent settings put the larger sensor system at a disadvantage, the photographer can instead always choose equivalent settings instead.  Indeed, the photographer is served best by choosing the optimal settings for their system, keeping in mind that what constitutes "optimal" is not only subjective, but highly dependent on the scene.  However, while equivalent settings are not necessarily optimal for the larger sensor system, these settings remove the subjectivity from the comparison, and are applicable to all scenes.

    It is instructive to understand why the same f-ratio results in the same exposure for the same scene and framing, regardless of the focal length or format.  There are four factors that determine how much light falls on the sensor:

    • The luminance of the scene
    • The amount of the scene that is recorded
    • The distance from the scene
    • The diameter of the aperture
    • Transmissivity of the lens elements
    • The shutter speed

    The amount of light from the scene depends on how wide we frame -- the wider we frame, the more light we will capture, since we are gathering light from a larger scene.  If we assume a scene with the same average luminance, framing twice as wide, for example, will result in collecting light from four times as much area, and thus four times as much light reaching the aperture.

    The amount of the light from the scene reaching the aperture also depends on how far we are from the scene -- the further away we are, the less of that light that reaches the lens.  For example, if we are twice as far away, the density of the light reaching us is 1/4 as much, the ISL (inverse square law) for light, so only 1/4 as much light will fall on the lens in any given time interval.  It should be noted that the inverse square law is exact only for point sources, and becomes "less exact" the wider we frame.  The reason is that the distance from the camera to the center of the focal plane is not the same as the distance to the other portions of the frame.  So, when we increase the distance from the scene, the distance from the other portions of the frame do not increase in the same proportion as the center.  However, for most situations, the difference is trivial.

    Furthermore, the amount of light from the scene falling on the aperture is proportional to the area of the aperture.  For example, if we double the diameter of the aperture, the area will quadruple, so four times as much light can pass through in any given time interval.  However, some light is lost as it travels through the lens which depends greatly on the lens (click here for some examples).  Lastly, the amount of the light passing through the aperture onto the sensor is proportional to the exposure time.  That is, double the shutter speed, and you halve the amount of light falling on the sensor.

    Let's work a few examples, ignoring the effects of light lost from the elements of the lens, keeping in mind that the exposure is the total light per area falling on the sensor, not the total amount of light.  In other words, we can express the exposure as the quotient of the total amount of light falling on the sensor and the area of the sensor.

    Say a photographer takes a "properly exposed" pic of a subject 10 ft away at 50mm f/2 1/100 (aperture diameter = 50mm / 2 = 25mm).  If they step back to 20 ft away and use 100mm f/2 1/100, the aperture diameter has doubled (100mm / 2 = 50mm) and the aperture area has quadrupled (area is proportional to the square of the diameter).  However, the amount of light from the scene reaching the lens is 1/4 as much since they're twice as far away. Since the aperture area is four times as much, it exactly compensates, and the same amount of light will pass through the aperture onto the sensor, and, since the sensor has not changed size, the exposure will also be the same.

    Alternatively, let's say they don't step back, but instead remained at 10 ft and shot at 100mm f/2 1/100.  At 80mm, the framing will be twice as tight, and thus record only 1/4 the light of the scene as they would at 40mm (assuming, of course, a uniformly lit scene). Thus, despite the fact that 1/4 as much light is reaching the lens, since the aperture area is four times as great, it exactly compensates once again.  An excellent video on this can be seen here.

    The above two examples demonstrate how the same f-ratio and shutter speed results in the same total light and exposure for a given scene and format regardless of focal length on the same format.   However, for different formats, the same exposure does not result in the same total amount of light falling on the sensor.

    Let's now consider a photographer using using 50mm f/2 1/100 on 4/3 and another photographer with FF shooting the same scene from the same distance at 100mm f/4 1/100.  In both cases, the framing is the same (ignoring the minor differences in aspect ratio between the systems, which amounts to a mere 4% difference), the aperture diameters are the same (50mm / 2 = 100mm / 4 = 25mm), the distances from the scene are the same, and the shutter speeds are the same.  Thus, the same amount of light will pass through the apertures onto the sensors.

    On the other hand, if the FF photographer shot the same scene from the same position at 100mm f/2 1/100, the aperture diameter would now be 100mm / 2 = 50mm as opposed to 25mm.  Since the aperture diameter is twice the size, the aperture area is four times as large, and four times as much light will fall on the sensor.  But, since the sensor has four times the area, the density of the light on the sensor would be the same as the 4/3 sensor, so the exposures would be the same.

    Thus, for a given scene, perspective, framing, aperture diameter, and shutters speed, the same amount of light will pass through the aperture onto the sensor for all systems.  However, there are some exceptions.  Some light is absorbed and/or scattered by the glass elements in the lens, and is quantified by noting the difference between the T-stop and the F-stop (f-ratio).  Click here to see some examples of this differential for a few lenses for the Nikon system.  It's helpful to note that a transmission of 79% represents a 1/3 stop loss of light, 63% represents a 2/3 stop loss of light, and 50% represents a one stop loss of light.

    In addition, the microlens efficiency plays a very important role in how much light that falls on the sensor is directed into the active area of the pixel.  DxOMark's article, F-Stop Blues, created something of a stir over this matter.  To direct all the light into the active portion of the pixel, the f-ratio of the microlens must be smaller than the product of the f-ratio of the lens and the proportion of the active area of the pixel.  For example, for an f/2 lens with 50% of the pixel area being active, the microlens needs to be f/2 · 0.5 = f/1.  Of course, it quickly becomes obvious why there are problems getting all the light into the pixel for lenses faster than f/2.  New technologies such as light-pipes, stacking microlenses, and BSI (backside illumination) are all possible solutions to this issue.

    Thus, for wide apertures, larger sensor systems have an advantage over smaller sensor systems for Equivalent photos since they will use a larger f-ratio for a given perspective, framing, DOF, and shutter speed.  For example, FF will suffer less light loss at 50mm f/2.8 1/100 ISO 1600 than 1.6x at 30mm f/1.8 1/100 ISO 640 which will suffer less light loss than 4/3 at 25mm f/1.4 1/100 ISO 400 (for a given sensor efficiency).  On the other hand, using FF at 50mm f/1.4 1/100 will not put the full 1 1/3 stops more light on the sensor than 30mm f/1.4 1/100 on 1.6x, or the full two stops more light on the sensor than 25mm f/1.4 100 on 4/3.

    So, for equally efficient lenses and sensors, f/2 = f/2 = f/2 in terms of exposure, regardless of format, but in terms of total light (and DOF), f/2 (on 4/3) is equivalent to f/2.5 on 1.6x which is equivalent to f/4 on 135.  However, due to limitations in current microlens efficiencies, these equivalences for total light become less clear cut for f-ratios below f/2.

    The reason, once again, that total light is so important, is because it is the total light that makes up the image (along with sensor efficiency) that determines the apparent noise, not the exposure.  Of course, for a given format, the distinction between exposure and total light is not necessary to make.  But when comparing different formats, the distinction is crucial.

    Hence, the same f-ratio will result in the same exposure for the same scene and framing regardless of format.  However, two different formats cannot simultaneously have the same exposure and same total amount of light for the same perspective and framing, since the same amount of light is being distributed on different areas.  There is one exception:  if we use the same perspective and focal length on both formats, and then crop the larger sensor image to the same framing as the smaller sensor image, then we will have the same exposure and total light (as well as the same DOF) if we use the same f-ratio.  However, in practice, the only time I know of when an image from a larger format uses the same perspective and focal length, and is subsequently cropped to the same framing as the smaller format, is when the larger format is focal length limited, or for greater apparent magnification (macro).

    In other words, the exposure matters only inasmuch as it is a component of the apparent exposure and total light -- it is not an important measure in and of itself.  That is, when we look at an image, we can see how bright or dark it appears (apparent exposure) and we can see the apparent noise and DR in the image (total light).  But we cannot see the exposure itself, so it is not important except as a means to an end.  This is a radical statement that many have difficulty coming to terms with, but it is a key point to understanding Equivalence, so let's take some time to discuss this critical point in more detail.

    So why bother to meter the scene are all?  That is, why even bother setting an ISO if it's the total light that determines the apparent noise in the image?  For an ideal camera where the sensor counts each and every photon that lies on it and has no saturation limit, we would not have any need for an ISO setting.  We would simply set the aperture to achieve the DOF / sharpness we want and the shutter speed to whatever is necessary to avoid motion blur and/or camera shake.  We could then select whatever apparent exposure we wanted after the capture.  However, such sensors, of course, do not exist.  At the bright end of the spectrum, it's easy to see why we can't always simply set the f-ratio and shutter speed  -- the sensor could oversaturate (blow out) many portions of the scene, if not the entire scene, where we wish to record detail if the shutter speed is too low.  As a side note, it's important to understand that a "properly" metered scene does not mean that portions of it are not oversaturated, since the camera has limited DR (dynamic range) due to the finite saturation point.

    Consider a landscape with the sun in it, for example.  The sun will most certainly be blown.  Thus, we choose a metering mode (or meter manually) so that we minimize the amount of the scene that is blown while maximizing the total light recorded to keep apparent noise down.  In other words, there is no objective "correct" exposure.  If there were, then cameras would only have one metering mode.  There is simply the best balance between oversaturation (blown highlights) and total light (low apparent noise).  For scenes with narrow DR, we want them exposed as far to the right (of the histogram) as possible to maximize total light and thus minimize apparent noise (within the constraints of DOF / sharpness and motion blur / camera shake).  But for scenes with wide DR, we need to make a choice of how much of the scene we are willing to blow out to keep apparent noise down.

    On the dark end, however, it's not so obvious why we need to set the ISO higher rather than merely record the image at base ISO and push the capture to the desired apparent exposure (either in-camera for jpg or via software in a RAW conversion).  Well, we could do that by using M mode, where the photographer sets both the f-ratio and shutter speed.  However, while the primary source of apparent noise in the midtones and highlights (photon noise) is usually determined by the total light, the sensor efficiency also plays a role in the read noise which plays a more dominant role in the shadows.  Ironically, higher ISOs actually have less apparent read noise than lower ISOs with some sensors (see this demonstration).  If they didn't, then the camera would only have a single ISO and then push or pull for the correct apparent exposure.  Thus, we still want to know how the scene meters so that we can set the apparent exposure with the appropriate ISO to minimize the apparent noise (although sensors with flat read noise have no need for ISO -- discussed in more detail  here).

    The camera determines the exposure by directly measuring the brightness of the scene at the sensor via a dedicated photovoltaic sensor.  Since the camera meters (and focuses) wide open, the camera can now determine the relative difference between the brightness of the scene at the sensor with the lens wide open and the brightness of the scene at the sensor with the aperture at a particular value.  In combination with shutter speed and ISO, the camera can now determine the apparent exposure of the captured image.  If the aperture for the capture is predetermined (Av mode), the camera chooses the proper shutter speed for the desired apparent exposure.  If the shutter speed is predetermined (Tv mode), the camera chooses the proper aperture for the desired apparent exposure.  If neither aperture nor shutter speed are predetermined (P and Auto modes), the camera will adjust both according to a programmed balance between the two.  This is why some feel that FF has a DOF that is too shallow -- in P and Auto modes, FF cameras choose an aperture that is wider than what smaller sensor cameras choose in these modes.  For example, we will find that if a camera chooses f/5 1/200 on a 1.6x DSLR in P or Auto mode, it will choose the same on FF, rather than f/8 1/80 instead, which would result in the same exposure and DOF.  Of course, the complaint would then be that FF chooses a shutter speed that is too slow compared to crop, rather than a DOF that is too narrow.  The solution to this problem is to incorporate "Auto ISO", where the FF camera chooses the same apparent exposure in P and Auto Modes as the smaller sensor camera, rather than the same exposure.  For example, if the 1.6x camera were to choose f/5 1/200 ISO 100 in P or Auto mode, the FF camera would choose f/8 1/200 ISO 250, which would result in the same DOF (given the same perspective and framing), the same apparent exposure (same image brightness), and the same total light (same apparent image noise given equally efficient sensors).  Of course, now the FF camera loses its advantage in apparent noise over the 1.6x camera.  Regardless, these problems only occur in P and Auto modes.  In any event, exposure, per se, is irrelevant, since, in terms of the photograph, what we care about are the brightness, DOF, and apparent noise.

    The bottom line is that exposure is important to the internal workings of the camera since, in terms of how the camera operates, sensors have a saturation limit, and analog amplification (higher ISOs) results in less apparent read noise than using a lower ISO and pushing the exposure in post for some systems (discussed in the next section).  But, in terms of comparing systems, it is easier to conceptualize that for a given perspective and framing, the total light depends only on the aperture diameter and shutter speed.  For fully equivalent images, the aperture diameters and shutter speeds will be the same, and hence the total amount of light falling on the sensors will also be the same.  Any differences in noise or dynamic range between systems will be due to the differences in efficiencies of the sensors.  Thus, a larger sensor system gives the option of getting less apparent noise by trading shutter speed, DOF, or a combination of both, but that this advantage can be offset, and even reversed, in some instances when the smaller system has IS lenses or sensor IS that the larger sensor system does not.  However, these advantages are often overstated since there are situations when these trades cannot be made, and the larger sensor will not have an advantage in apparent noise over smaller sensors, or IS will be of limited use due to motion blur of moving subjects.

    In the end, images are created with light, and it is the total amount of that light, and not the exposure, that is the important measure in terms of IQ.  Thus, it is important to understand that equivalent images are based on the same total light and not the same exposure.  At first read, this sounds ludicrous, but when we discover that we normally mean "apparent exposure" when we say "exposure", just as people usually mean "f-ratio" when they say "aperture", all falls into place.  These distinctions are key, and in combination with same output size, the basis of pretty much all the confusion in understanding equivalence.  We now bring the essence of a photograph back to the fundamental point that it is the total amount of light used to create the image, not the intensity of that light, that is central.

     

     

     

     

     

    NOISE, DYNAMIC RANGE, AND TONAL RANGE

     

    Noise.  That's where the controversy over Equivalence begins.  People think that the "equivalence argument" is based on the presumption that Equivalent images have the same noise.  Even different cameras from the same format will have not have the exactly the same noise, either in quantity or quality, so, clearly, neither will Equivalent images from different formats.  However, for sensors of the same generation, Equivalent images will usually be fairly similar in terms of noise, and certainly more similar than images from different formats with the same exposure (same f-ratio and shutter speed).  Furthermore, it is of utmost importance to distinguish between noise at the pixel level, and noise at the image level.  Since pixels are the building blocks of digital images, this section begins with the discussion of noise at the pixel level, followed by a discussion of how these pixels, in aggregate, relate to the image as a whole (beginning here).

    When people refer to noise in an image, what they mean is what this essay calls "apparent noise", which is the density of the noise in an image (NSR -- noise-to-signal ratio) and is often represented as a percent.  Often, we hear the term "SNR" (signal-to-noise ratio), which is the reciprocal of the NSR (SNR = 1 / NSR).  However, since a "noisy image" corresponds to a high NSR, and a clean image corresponds to a low NSR, whereas it is exactly opposite for SNR, it is less confusing to think in terms of NSR than SNR.

    In terms of photography, there are two principle sources of noise:  photon noise and read noise.  Except for the deep shadows in an image, the photon noise is the primary source of noise in an image.  It is an inherent characteristic of incoherent light (the kind of light in almost all situations -- see the diagrams at the bottom of this page), and unavoidable -- one of those "Laws of Physics" things, as opposed to "an engineering challenge".  Light has the properties of both a particle (photon) and wave, and the noise is measured in terms of its particle characteristics.  The photons are collected and focused by the lens onto the sensor, where they are converted into electrons, and the signal is processed and recorded.  The only role the sensor plays in the photon noise is what proportion of the photons falling on the sensor are converted into electrons, since the electrons are the source of the electrical current that is processed by the hardware.  The read noise, discussed in more detail further down, is how much noise is added when collecting and processing the signal produced by the photons.

    There are, of course, other sources of noise, such as thermal noise, which plays a central role in long exposures, PRNU (Pixel Response Non-Uniformity) noise, which plays an important role in the highlights of the image, as well as other sources of noise.  So, noise, is, of course, even more complicated than this essay makes it appear, and for some specific forms of photography (such as astrophotography) we may find that the noise is very different for equivalent images in some situations, much in the same way that corner sharpness is very different for equivalent images in some situations.

    Let's begin with an analogy to traffic to understand photon noise.  Imagine we drew a line across a busy freeway, and counted cars crossing the line.  The number of cars crossing the line in any given time interval represents the total light falling on the sensor during an exposure.  If we are talking about short intervals of time, like seconds, or, at most, minutes, then we can safely assume that there is a constant average flow of traffic.  But we also know that it is very unlikely that any two equal time intervals will contain exactly the same number of cars.  This variation from the "true average" is what we call "noise".  The larger the time interval, the larger the noise will be, but the less significant it will be in terms of the total number of cars counted (apparent noise).

    For example, let's say that, on average, 10 cars pass by our line every second, and let's say we take three one-second samples that come up with 8, 11, and 13 cars.  These three "photographs" would have a noise of 2, 1, and 3 cars, respectively, which correspond to an apparent noise of 20%, 10%, and 30%.  Now, let's say we extend the time interval to ten seconds.  The expected number of cars would now be 100 cars (10 cars / second · 10 seconds = 100 cars).  Let's say that, once again, we take three "photographs" and count 93, 98, and 112 cars.  The noise is now 7, 2, and 12 cars -- much more than before.  But the apparent noise is 7%, 2%, and 12% -- much less than before.

    So, the question is, then, how do we know what the "true average" number of cars is?  Well, we don't.  But what we do know is that the arrival of photons for incoherent light is described by a Poisson Distribution, that the standard deviation for phenomena that is described with a Poisson Distribution is equal to the square root of the mean (average), and that the standard deviation is the photon noise (often called the Shot Noise, which is a more general term).  Thus, since the magnitude of the noise is equal to the square root of the number of recorded photons, the noise increases with more light.  But since the NSR is the ratio of the noise and the recorded signal, the apparent noise decreases with more light.  For example, whenever we double the amount of light, the photon noise increases by 41%, but the apparent photon noise decreases by 41%.

    A good way to visualize the role the lens and sensor play in photon noise is to think of rain falling on a flat surface through an opening.  The size of the opening corresponds to the aperture area, and length of time the rain falls corresponds to the shutter speed.  If a lot of rain is falling (lots of light), then the surface will quickly be covered in water having a very smooth appearance (low apparent noise).  However, let's imagine a much lighter rain (low light).  At first, we will see splotches of water here and there in a random and irregular pattern (noisy image).  As more water falls (the total amount of light increases), either by letting more time pass (longer shutter speed) and/or by making the opening larger (larger aperture area), the pattern becomes smoother (less noisy).

    Let's now pack a large number of cups on the surface to collect the water.  The cups are analogous to the pixels on the sensor.  Larger cups will collect more water than smaller cups, but smaller cups will give us a better idea of the pattern of the rain.  If we compare an array of cups covering the same area, the water in the larger cups will be more uniformly filled (less noisy) than the smaller cups.  This is why photos from sensors with larger pixels appear less noisy than sensors with smaller pixels.  However, the amount of water in the smaller cups gives us a much better idea of the pattern of rain that has fallen (resolve greater detail).  If the resulting "image" formed by the water in the cups is too noisy to our liking with the smaller cups, we could replace the smaller cups with larger cups and pour the water collected in the smaller cups into the larger cups, achieving the same smoothness we had if we had used the larger cups from the beginning (binning).  Alternatively, we could siphon water from one cup and add it to an adjacent cup to smooth the appearance of the "image".  This method of smoothing (NR -- noise reduction) would retain more of the detail of the original pattern than if the smaller cups were just poured into bigger cups (binning).

    There are, of course, important considerations.  How closely are the cups packed together?  How deep is each cup?  How thick is the glass in each cup?  These concerns are all analogous to the efficiency of the pixel, and has much to do with whether or not a sensor with more pixels can accurately achieve the lower noise of a sensor with fewer pixels via binning.  For the same technology, it appears as though this is very much the case.  Thus, smaller pixels offer more options of detail vs noise than do larger pixels.  For photos composed with a large amount of light, smaller pixels basically resolve more detail, and, while more noisy, still "clean enough" to where the additional detail likely contributes far more to the IQ of the photo than the greater noise detracts from the IQ.  It is only for images, or portions thereof, that are created with little light that sensors with smaller pixels much choose, via post processing, to have greater detail and more apparent noise, or less detail with less apparent noise.

    Of course, this choice only comes to play if we display the photo large enough and/or view it closely enough, that we can resolve the additional detail afforded by more pixels.  Otherwise, we do not need to do anything at all -- the photos would look the same, whether they came from sensors with large, or small, pixels.

    However, it is not merely the total amount of light that falls on the sensor, but also how efficient the sensor is.  The primary attributes of sensor efficiency are the QE (Quantum Efficiency -- the proportion of photons falling on the sensor that are converted into electrons) and the read noise (the additional noise added by the sensor and supporting hardware).  A Bayer CFA is usually RGGB which means that 25% of the pixels are covered with red filters, 50% are covered with green filters, and 25% are covered with blue filters.  Of course, the filters actually accept a range of colors, which overlap (otherwise, yellow photons, for example, would never make it through the color filters).  How much the filters overlap, and how strong the filters are, also contribute to the sensor efficiency.  For example, if the color filters are weak, they are subject to more transmission error (when the wrong color photon passes through), which reduces luminance noise, but increases color noise.  Thus, the QE for the red, blue, and green filters is likely different (how different, I cannot say, as I have no data on this matter, but I don't think it's by more than 10% based on transmission graphs that I've seen).

    In addition, the read noise often varies considerably as a function of the camera's ISO setting, usually getting progressively less with higher ISOs ("ISOless" sensors have a relatively constant read noise as a function of the camera's ISO setting).  In addition, some sensors have a base ISO of 100, whereas others have a base ISO of 200.  Sensors with a base ISO of 100 can absorb twice the light at that setting than sensors with a base ISO of 200.  This brings up the saturation capacity of the pixel, which is the number of electrons that it can release.  Both read noise and saturation capacity are only meaningful, in terms of comparative IQ of the photos between systems, when taken on a per area basis.  For example, consider a 10 MP and 40 MP sensor of the same size and with the same QE.  If  the pixels of the 40 MP sensor have 25% the saturation capacity and 50% the read noise, then they would be "equally efficient", since a four pixel block (same area as a single pixel of the 10 MP sensor) would record the same number of photons that landed on it, have the same total saturation, and the same total read noise.

    Lastly, the issue of banding needs to be discussed.  Banding is not noise, since it represents a systematic bias in the output signal, whereas noise is completely random.  In that sense, banding is usually significantly more a detriment to IQ than is noise, depending, of course, on how serious the banding is.

    For example, the Canon 5D has a QE of 25%, the Canon 5DII has a QE of 33%, and the Nikon D3s has a QE of 57% (see here, but keep in mind that these figures are for the green channel only, and I am assuming that there is no significant difference in the other channels, and that the transmission error for the color filters is "close").  What this means is that the Nikon D3s will record just over a stop more total light for a given exposure than the 5D, and about 2/3 than the 5DII.  The maximum possible QE is, of course, 100%, which is just under a stop more than the Nikon D3s.  Of course, that doesn't mean that a 100% QE will record all the light falling on the sensor -- the Bayer CFA, recording only one color per pixel, will only pass, at best, 1/4 of the red and blue light, and 1/2 the green light (since most Bayer CFA filters are RGGB).  There is also the matter of light absorption by the color filter itself, as well as allowing the wrong color light to pass through (color noise).

    The read noise (R), is the sum of the pixel noise (P) and electronic noise (E).  The total noise (N) is the sum of the photon noise (p) and the read noise (R).  Since noise is a standard deviation, it does not sum linearly -- that is, R ≠ P + E.  For independent random phenomena, like noise, it is instead the variances (the squares of the standard deviations) that sum linearly:  R˛ = P˛ + E˛.  Thus, the read noise is the square root of the sum of the squares:  R = sqrt (P˛ + E˛).  We can represent the total noise (N) as the sum of the photon noise and read noise, N = sqrt (p˛ + R˛), or as the sum of the three components discussed (photon noise, pixel noise, and electronic noise):   N = sqrt (p˛ + P˛ + E˛).

    For example, the Nikon D3X pixels have a FWS of 48975 electrons.  For the sake of discussion, let's say that the output voltage of the pixel is 1V at full saturation.  Then one electron would correspond to 1/48975 V ~ 20.4 µV.  Thus, a pixel noise of 61 µV would correspond to 61 µV / 20.4 µV ~ 3.0 electrons.  Finally, other signal processing, such as the conversion of the analog signal into a digital signal, add in additional electronic noise.  Again, for example, if the electronic noise were 44 µV, then it would correspond to 44 µV /  20.4 µV ~ 2.2 electrons.  The total read noise can be computed as sqrt (3.0˛ + 2.2˛) ~ 3.7 electrons (as opposed to the 5.2 electrons we would get for a simple linear sum).

    If 250 photons fell on the pixel, and the QE is 40%, then the signal is 250 · 0.4 = 100 electrons.  Thus, the photon noise would be p = sqrt (100) = 10 electrons and would result in a combined noise of N = sqrt (10˛ + 3.0˛ + 2.2˛) ~ 10.7 electrons for the pixel, which is considerably less than the 15.2 electrons of a linear sum, and gives an NSR of 10.7 / 100 ~ 10.7%.

    A common myth is that higher ISOs cause more noise.  In fact, what causes the increase in noise at higher ISOs is the lower exposure.  That is, when we increase the ISO, the camera will either increase the shutter speed, close down the aperture, or both.  The effect of this is that less light falls on the sensor, and it is the lesser amount of light falling on the sensor that increases the noise, not the higher ISO, per se.

    Unlike film, the sensitivity of the sensor is fixed.  The effect of the ISO is merely to apply a gain to the signal that, for some sensors, is a bit more efficient than a digital push (if the gain is analog as opposed to digital -- see here and here for demonstrations) and results in less noise (at the possible expense of blowing more highlights).  If higher ISOs were not more efficient than base ISO, then there would be no point in having higher ISOs, except for the convenience of not having to push to the desired brightness in post.  The camera would only have base ISO, and we would simply choose the appropriate f-ratio for the DOF and/or sharpness we desire, and the appropriate shutter speed to account for motion blur and/or camera shake.  The exposure meter would tell us how over/under exposed we are (less exposure means more noise, more exposure means more blown highlights), at which point the photographer could adjust the balance of the f-ratio and shutter speed with the exposure to achieve the exposure that gave the best balance of DOF / sharpness, motion blur / camera shake, and noise / blown highlights.  We would then push the image digitally to whatever brightness we desired.  This, of course, represents an ideal situation, but, in fact, is a reality now with some sensors, such as the new Sony sensor in the Nikon D7000 and Pentax K5 (see here for a demonstration).

    It's more than worthwhile to note that the photon noise will dominate the image in the midtones and highlights, so the read noise plays little role except in the shadows.  Many systems deal with shadow noise simply by clipping them earlier, which, of course, removes the detail as well.  However, much more important than the shadow noise itself is banding, which is most noticeable and distracting in the shadows due to the fact that banding is a regular pattern as opposed to the random nature of noise.  For example, a sensor with low read noise and banding may well produce a significantly worse image in the shadows than a sensor with more read noise without the banding.  That said, the issue of banding is separate from the issue of noise, and not discussed in this essay as banding has nothing to do with sensor size.

    However, there can be a more common disparity in noise due to the CFA (color filter array).  Color noise arises from the fact that the color filters are not perfect.  For example, the green filter may only admit 60% of the green light that falls on it, but also admit 10% of other colors that fall on it.  If we use a weaker filter to increase the transmissivity, we will reduce the luminance noise (more total light will pass through the filter and onto the sensor), but also increase the transmission error by concomitantly allowing a greater percentage of other colors to also pass through.  Thus, different manufacturers may strike different balances between luminance noise vs color noise in their choice of color filters in the same way they strike a different balance between pixel noise and electronic noise, as in the D3X and 5DII.

    In short, the quantity of noise in a photo is determined by the following three factors:

     The total amount of light that falls on the sensor
     The efficiency the sensor captures the light
     The additional noise added by the hardware

    It is also important to note that the processing has a huge effect of the apparent noise in a photo, but it must be noted that NR (noise reduction) also removes detail.  However, depending on the NR algorithm, the resulting photo can range anywhere from a horrid smear to appearing just as detailed but less noisy.  Any NR algorithm will remove detail.  But, depending on what detail is removed, and what detail is left intact, the results can vary drastically, especially depending on the scene.  In fact, it is possible that some NR (noise reduction) engines may even introduce false detail to replace the detail lost in the NR process, as do some upsampling algorithms, to give the appearance of less noise with no, or little, lost detail.  In addition, it needs to be noted that the amplitude (quantity) of noise depends on the frequency (detail) at which the photo is viewed, which is discussed in more detail further down in this section.

    For a given scene, perspective, and framing, the total amount of light is determined solely by the aperture diameter (where aperture diameter = focal length / f-ratio) and the shutter speed.  The role the sensor size plays in total light is that a larger sensor can absorb more light before oversaturating.  By using a larger aperture, we also force a more shallow DOF, because the aperture plays an integral role for both total light and DOF.  So, if a more shallow DOF is not desirable (and/or the concomitant effects that can occur, such as softer corners and more vignetting), then the only way to decrease noise is to decrease the shutter speed, at the risk of overexposing more of the image (this technique is known as ETTR -- expose to the right), and works best for images with a narrow DR (dynamic range).  The efficiency by which this light is captured is a function of many variables, primarily the CFA, the efficiency of the microlens covering, the percentage of the light transmitted by the color filters, and the QE (quantum efficiency) of the sensor.  The efficiency of the signal amplification is a function of not only the sensor, but the supporting hardware, such as the ADUs (Analog-to-Digital Units).

    In terms of the total signal, the amount of light lost by traveling through the glass of the lens is insignificant, so there is no improvement to be made there.  The microlens covering over the sensor, which directs the light that falls on the sensor into the pixels is also near 100% efficiency for modern cameras, so, again, there is no improvement to be made there, either.  However, for Bayer sensors, each pixel records only one color (usually 25% red, 25% blue, and 50% green), which results in around another stop of light lost.  Modern DSLRs have a QE of anywhere from 30% - 40%, so there is about another 1.5 stops more gain that can be made there.  Thus, modern DSLRs with Bayer CFA's are around 2.5 stops away from the maximum possible improvement in photon noise, with one more stop for a scheme that does not require color filters.

    While alternative schemes from Bayer may one day be able to give us this extra 1-2 stops improvement in photon noise and possibly render double the detail for a given pixel count as well, so far these technologies have run into significant problems of their own, such as the Foveon sensor where each pixel records three colors as opposed to one.  While ostensibly a very good idea, and one that may eventually take hold, in its current implementation it is actually more noisy than a Bayer CFA.  Another scheme is to use prisms or dichromatic mirrors to direct the different colors to three sensors ("3CCD" video cameras, for example), but these alternatives currently have significant technical problems of their own to overcome.

    So far, the discussion of noise has been focused on noise at the pixel level.  However, as we saw above when computing the tonal range, calculating values at the image level will give us a different result, and this result is what describes the visual properties of the final photo.  Most believe that because a larger pixel gathers more light for a given exposure, that larger pixels result in less apparent noise.  However, for a given sensor size, the smaller the pixel, the more pixels you have.  So, while a larger pixel will have less noise than a smaller pixel since it gathers more light for the same exposure, the image as a whole will be made from the same total amount of light regardless of the number of pixels.

    This is not to say that the number of pixels has no effect on the apparent noise in an image.  In terms of the IQ of the final image, we are best served by viewing noise as a vector measure (multiple components) rather than a scalar measure (single valued).  In other words, noise has both an amplitude and frequency.  The amplitude of the noise is the standard deviation from the mean signal, and the frequency of the noise is the number of samples taken.  The higher the amplitude of the noise, the lower the IQ.  The higher the frequency of the noise, the higher the IQ.  For a given sensor size, smaller pixels will result in both a higher amplitude and higher frequency of noise.  The problem with noise comparisons on sensors with different pixel counts is that people often compare noise at different frequencies by comparing 100% crops rather than equal areas of the image displayed at the same dimensions.

    Consider, for example, a 10 MP sensor and a 40 MP sensor of the same size and efficiency.  If we displayed the photos large enough, or viewed them closely enough, that we could resolve the individual pixels, then the 40 MP photo would appear more noisy, but also be more detailed (see here for an example of this point).  In other words, the more detailed image will have more noise at higher spatial frequencies because it can resolve it.  A good way to think of this is that the noise from the scene already exists, and the closer you look, the more clearly you see it:

    A sensor with more pixels will more clearly resolve the noise that already exists, whereas a sensor with fewer pixels will simply blur the existing noise.

    On the other hand, if we cannot resolve the individual pixels, then the 40 MP photo would not appear any more noisy than the 10 MP photo.  But neither would it appear more detailed, since we could not resolve the individual pixels.  So, what's the point of 40 MP over 10 MP if 40 MP will necessarily be more noisy if we can resolve the additional detail?  The answer is rather simple:  detail often matters more than noise.  More than that, even if the detail cannot be resolved, it may indirectly affect other elements of IQ in the photo, such as tonal gradations, microcontrast, smoothness, etc.

    Of course, all this presumes that the 40 MP sensor is just as efficient as the 10 MP sensor.  While the pixel counts have steadily risen, and the sensor efficiencies have steadily improved, many feel that if the engineering efforts went entirely into improving efficiency, rather than divided between increasing pixel count and improving efficiency, we'd have more efficient sensors still.  However, there is no evidence to support this assertion for CMOS sensors, but may be true for CCD sensors.

    Let's work an example with two hypothetical sensors with the same size and efficiency (and, for the sake of simplicity, assume QE = 100% for each), but the pixels for Sensor B are half the size (1/4 the area) as the pixels of Sensor A.  Without any loss in generality, let us simplify the comparison to consider 1 pixel from Sensor A and 4 pixels from Sensor B, since they will each cover the same area of the sensor (and resulting image).  Let's say the FWC for the pixels in sensor A is 80000 electrons.  Then the FWC for the pixels of Sensor B will be 1/4 as much, since they have 1/4 the area -- 20000 electrons.  Likewise, if the read noise for Sensor A is 8 electrons, then the read noise for Sensor B will be 2 electrons.  The LMS for a pixel on Sensor A will be  [1 + sqrt (1 + 4·8˛) ] / 2 ~ 8.5 electrons, and the LMS for a pixel on Sensor B will be [1 + sqrt (1 + 4·2˛) ] / 2 ~ 2.6 electrons.  Thus, the DR for Sensor A will be log2 (80000 / 8.5) ~ 13.2 stops and the DR for Sensor B will be log2 (20000 / 2.6) ~ 12.9 stops -- virtually identical.

    If we assume, then, that a pixel on Sensor A receives a signal of 64 photons, then, also assuming relatively uniform illumination, each pixel of Sensor B will receive a signal of 16 photons (1/4 as much).  This will result in a photon noise of sqrt 64 = 8 electrons for Sensor A and sqrt 16 = 4 electrons for Sensor B.   Thus, the total noise for a pixel of Sensor A will be sqrt (8˛ + 8˛) ~ 11.3 electrons, and the total noise for a pixel of Sensor B will be sqrt (4˛ + 2˛) ~ 4.5 electrons.  This will result in an apparent noise of 11.3 / 64 ~ 18% for each pixel on Sensor A and 4.5 / 16 ~ 28% for each pixel on Sensor B.  Thus, the price for the increased detail on Sensor B is more apparent noise.  In other words, if we displayed the image from Sensor B with double the dimensions as the image from Sensor A, and viewed from the same distance, it would appear to have up to double the linear detail (depending on the performance of the lens and the effects of diffraction softening), and 56% more apparent noise.

    If, however, we instead downsized the image from Sensor B to the same output dimensions as Sensor A, then the effect would be the same as if we binned the pixels together.  Thus, the signal for four binned pixels would the same as one pixel from Sensor A, and the noise for a "binned pixel" on Sensor A would be sqrt (4.5˛ + 4.5˛ + 4.5˛ + 4.5˛) ~ 9 electrons.  This gives us an apparent noise of 9 / 64 ~ 14% which is actually lower than the apparent noise of a pixel from Sensor A!  However, even more effective would be to instead apply NR (noise reduction) to the more detailed image, as this process is more efficient than binning in trading detail for a cleaner image.  Regardless, we need to keep in mind that more pixels do not result in more noise, but rather show the noise more clearly along with the extra detail.

    In more simple terms, it meaningless to discuss apparent noise without considering the detail of the image.  Just as it makes since to compare the sharpness and detail of images at the same output size, it only makes sense to compare the noise in images at the same level of detail.  In other words, it makes no sense to say that one image has less noise than another, when it also has less detail, since NR (noise reduction) can be applied to the more detailed image to get a cleaner image at the expense of detail.

    Thus, for a meaningful comparison of apparent noise between images, we would first apply NR to the more detailed image until it matches the level of detail of the less detailed image.  Interestingly, this means that the sharpness of the lens has an effect on apparent image noise since a sharp image is able to withstand more NR than is a soft image.  In other words, it is not merely the efficiency of the sensor, but the relative sharpness of the lens that has a major impact on the apparent noise in a photo.

    Even more important, in some instances, is focus accuracy, since even a small focus error can often lead to a significant loss of sharpness (please see this article).  In any event, it is often more an issue of how the noise is processed, rather than the quantity of noise, that is the primary issue.  For example, some manufacturers may select a higher black point that gives cleaner shadows, but also destroys all detail.  So, we must take care to once again consider apparent noise vs detail.

    All that said, while we often speak of the apparent noise of Camera A vs Camera B, what many overlook is that it is not merely the quantity of apparent noise, but the quality of the noise, that is important.  It is not only possible, but likely, that one image may be have more apparent noise than another, yet have a much more pleasing look due to the quality of the noise.  For example, color noise is usually much more distracting than luminescence noise.  In addition, higher frequency apparent noise (finer grain) with the accompanying greater detail is usually considered much more appealing than lower frequency apparent noise (coarse grain) with less detail.  In other words, a more noisy image with a finer "grain" may well look better than a less noisy image with a clumpier "grain", depending on how close the overall quantities of noise are and the differences in detail rendered (an excellent demonstration of this is given here and here).  To this end, having more pixels, even at the expense of more apparent noise, can lead to a more appealing overall image, but this is most certainly subjective.  Of course, if the more detailed image has the same, or even less, apparent noise than the less detailed image after NR is applied to match the level of detail, then the system with the more detailed, yet more noisy, image will have a substantial IQ advantage by being able to better balance noise and detail in post.  Regardless, it is important to consider the types of images where apparent noise is even an issue.  This, of course, depends greatly on both the QT (quality threshold) of the viewer which is strongly influenced by print size and the viewer's "noise floor" -- that is, the point at which less apparent noise has no noticeable impact on the IQ of the image.  For example, while an ISO 100 image from 35mm FF has less apparent noise than an ISO 100 image from 4/3, the advantage in apparent noise of 35mm FF may be unnoticeable to the viewer at ISO 100.  Of course, the "noise floor" is likely a function of the print size and viewing distance as well.  For example, the apparent noise in an image may not be distracting in a 5x7 print, but become an issue in a 12x18 print.  Furthermore, the impact of the apparent noise is greatly dependent on the scene.  The apparent noise may go overlooked in areas with lots of detail, but stick out in areas with low detail, such as sky noise.

    In addition to the mere quantity of apparent noise, we have to consider the balance of apparent noise in the different color channels, which is a function of the CFA (color filter array) that is used on the sensor.  One image may be less noisy than another overall, but exhibit significantly more apparent noise in one of the color channels which will give it a less appealing overall look.  Furthermore, both photon and read noise are completely random which makes for a significantly more pleasing appearance than banding which has a regular pattern.  In other words, while apparent noise is most certainly an important consideration in the IQ of an image, the quantity of the apparent noise most likely is less important than the quality of the apparent noise.

    Lastly, we have to take into account that different RAW converters and JPG engines will deal with noise differently, so the noise/detail present in the final image is not necessarily an accurate representation of the actual hardware.  NR (noise reduction) can be applied even with a setting of "0", blacks can be clipped early to hide shadow noise (albeit at the cost of erasing detail), etc.  In fact, even the same RAW converter might use different settings for different cameras since the programmers decided that such-and-such a look was "better".  So, for sure, it is the final image that matters.  But the final image is not necessarily representative of the capability of the hardware.  In fact, many compare images on the basis of in-camera jpgs, which, of course, is a very poor way in which to compare the hardware performance.  But it is the best way to compare if you shoot jpg!

    Thus, the advantage in apparent noise of larger sensor systems is limited to situations when they can use a lower shutter speed than the smaller sensor systems, such as good light, tripod use where motion blur is not a factor, flash photography when the balance of the light from the flash and the ambient light is not an issue, or when a more shallow DOF is used by trading f-ratio for ISO.  And, once again, all these factors only matter if we are talking about sensors that have the same, or nearly the same, efficiency.  Regardless, it is likely that it is the quality of the apparent noise, more so than quantity of the apparent noise, that is the primary factor in distinguishing between the IQ of Equivalent images in terms of apparent noise.  Just as with any element of IQ, apparent noise is very subjective, and different people will reach different conclusions about which image is more pleasing, even if the numbers clearly point to one image or the other as having more overall apparent noise.

     

    Dynamic Range

     

    The Dynamic Range (DR) tells us the maximum range of light levels where we can record detail, and is the number of stops from the noise floor to the saturation point:  DR = log2 (Saturation Point / Noise Floor).  The saturation point is the maximum number of electrons that can be released, and the noise floor is the smallest number of electrons that can be released for detail to be recorded.

    For digital cameras, the DR is a pixel level measure where the noise floor is the read noise of the pixel, and the saturation point is the saturation limit for a pixel:  DR = log2 (Pixel Saturation / Read Noise).  However, a problem with this definition is that for a perfect sensor with zero read noise, the DR would be infinite.  Thus, a more meaningful noise floor, in terms of the visual properties of the captured photo, is to use the 100% NSR, where the 100% NSR  is the number of electrons that results in equal parts noise and signal for a read noise, R:  100% NSR = [1 + sqrt (1 + 4·R˛) ] / 2.  Thus, DR100 = log2 (Pixel Saturation / 100% NSR).

    For example, the read noise at base ISO (ISO 100) the Nikon D7000 is 3.1 electrons, and the 100% NSR is [1 + sqrt (1 + 4·3.1˛) ] / 2 =  3.64 electrons.  The pixel saturation is 49058 electrons so the DR at base ISO for the D7000 using the read noise for the LMS is  log2 (49058 / 3.1) ~ 13.9 stops, and the DR using the 100% NSR for the LMS is log2 (49058 / 3.64) ~ 13.7 stops -- no significant difference.

    It is also important to note that two systems with the same DR do not necessarily look the same.  One complicating factor is, since DR is a pixel-level measure, is if two photos are made from a different number of pixels (discussed below).  The other factor is that, even for the same number of pixels, one sensor with pixels that have a noise floor of 10 electrons and a saturation limit of 40960 electrons (12 stops) does not have the same properties as another sensor with a noise floor of 2 electrons and a saturation limit of 8192 electrons (12 stops).

    In addition, many confuse bit depth with DR.  The DR is the number of bits of information about the scene that the sensor can collect per pixel.  The bit depth is the number of bits of information the supporting hardware can process and record per pixel.  If the DR is greater than the bit depth, the supporting hardware is not taking full advantage of the sensor output, that is, not all levels of the captured DR will be distinguishable.  On the other hand, if the bit depth is greater than the DR, more memory is being used than necessary to store the photo.  The tone curve applied to the photo maps the linear capture of the RAW file into a processed image file that may, or may not, reflect the DR of the initial capture.

    This brings us to how DR fares for jpg vs RAW.  Since jpgs are 8 bits, they can display at most 8 levels of the DR.  The tone curve decides which levels of the DR are represented in the jpg file.  The advantage of RAW over in-camera jpgs is that RAW allows the photographer to choose the "appropriate" tone curve after the fact, but if the in-camera jpg has the desirable tone curve, then the RAW file has no advantage in this regard since most display media (prints and computer monitors) can only display 8-9 levels.

    In a sense, RAW vs jpg is analogous to Auto vs M mode.  In Auto mode, the camera chooses the f-ratio and shutter speed for the capture; in M mode, the photographer chooses.  Just as some photographers may feel that the camera makes the right choices in Auto mode, some photographers may feel that the tone curve applied in-camera is the right choice.  If the camera has multiple options for tone curves, this is analogous to shooting in an AE (auto exposure) mode such as Av, where the photographer chooses the f-ratio, but the camera chooses the shutter speed, or Tv mode, where the camera chooses the f-ratio, but the photographer chooses the shutter speed.  The analogy breaks down, however, in that that photographer cannot change the f-ratio and/or shutter speed after the fact, but the photographer can choose the tone curve after the fact if they shoot RAW.

    An excellent example of  applying the "appropriate" tone curve after the fact, are the following two photos here:

    http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1034&message=36903045

    Note how the bottom photo has compressed the DR of the scene by revealing details in the highlights that were blown in the top photo, since the higher ISO of the bottom photo shifted the DR of the capture four stops lower.  So, even though the medium (jpg displayed on a computer monitor) cannot display all 14 stops of the DR of the initial RAW capture, the DR of the capture can be mapped into the fewer levels of the display medium by an "appropriate" tone curve to produce a better photo.  This is not unlike how we see.  Our eyes take several exposures of scenes, and our brain merges these exposures into an HDR-like memory of what we "saw".

    However, as discussed above, the DR is not an ideal measure for comparing the IQ of photos from different systems, since:

     DR is a pixel level measure as opposed to image level measure, which is an issue if the systems have significantly different pixel counts
     A perfect sensor with zero read noise would have an infinite DR, which is unrealistic in terms of a measure of the visual properties of the photo.

    Enter the DR100 / µphoto, where a µphoto is one-millionth of a photo:  DR100 / µphoto = log2 [(Saturation / µphoto) / (100% NSR / µphoto)] Since one µphoto represents the same portion of the photo regardless of how many pixels it is made of, the DR100 / µphoto is an image level measurement.  It is worthwhile to note that a photo displayed at 1200 x 900 pixels on a computer monitor is 1.08 MP.  Hence one µphoto represents one pixel on a computer monitor for a photo displayed at that size.

    So, let's compute the DR100 /  µphoto for the D7000 at ISO 100 (16.37 MP sensor, read noise = 3.1 electrons, pixel saturation = 49058 electrons).  One µphoto is 16.37 pixels, so the read noise / µphoto is 3.1 electrons · sqrt 16.37 ~ 12.5 electrons.  The 100% NSR / µphoto is [1 + sqrt (1 + 4·12.5˛) ] / 2 ~ 13.1  electrons.  The saturation capacity / µphoto is 16.37 · 49058 electrons = 803079 electrons.  Hence, the DR100 / µphoto = log2 (803079 / 13.1) ~ 15.9 stops -- two stops higher than the DR pixel-level measurement.

    The significance of the difference between the DR and the DR100 /  µphoto can been seen in an example comparing the 60D to the 40D at ISO 100.  The 40D (10.3 MP, read noise = 19.6 electrons, pixel saturation = 40311 electrons) has a DR of 11.0 stops at base ISO -- slightly higher than the 60D (read noise = 13.2 electrons, pixel saturation = 24322 electrons).  However, the DR100 / µphoto for the 40D works out to be 12.7 stops -- slightly lower than the 60D.  Thus, we can see how the DR100 / µphoto reflects the IQ differential from the slightly more efficient sensor of the 60D, whereas the DR does the exact opposite.

    Increasing sensor efficiency by lowering the read noise / area and/or increasing the saturation capacity / area will increase both the DR and the DR100 / µphoto.  However, increasing the number of pixels will have no effect on the DR, but will increase the DR100 / µphoto of a system (and hence the IQ of a photo), so long as the sensor efficiency does not suffer.  The maximum possible DR100 / µphoto for a system is log2 (saturation capacity / µphoto) which can only be achieved on an ideal sensor with zero read noise.

    However, this is not to say that two systems with the same DR100 / µphoto will produce equally pleasing photos.  A good example is to compare the DR of the Canon 5D at ISO 100 and ISO 400, which is virtually the same, and, since we are comparing on the same sensor, the DR100 / µphoto would also be the nearly same.  Clearly, we would not claim that the ISO 400 photo has the same IQ of the ISO 100 photo.  While the range of lighting in which the 5D could capture detail would be essentially the same, the noise would not, since the ISO 400 photo would be capturing 1/4 the light as the ISO 100 photo.

    In other words, DR100 / µphoto is simply another measure to measure the IQ of a photo, but must be taken in context.  Just as two cameras with the same pixel count will not necessarily record the same amount of detail, two systems with the same DR100 / µphoto will not necessarily produce photos with the same "smoothness".

     

     

     

     

     

    LENS VS SENSOR

     

    A digital image is made with a lens and a sensor, but which matters more?  The simple answer is that neither is more important than the other.  The sensor size and efficiency in combination with the aperture diameter of the lens determine how much light makes up the image for a given shutter speed, which is the primary source of apparent noise in an image.  The detail captured depends on both the sharpness of the lens, the size of the sensor, and the number of pixels (a common myth is that modern sensors out resolve the lenses, discussed in more detail in the next section).

    Many are unaware that the size of the sensor contributes greatly to the sharpness of the image.  The reason the size matters is because an image captured on a larger sensor is enlarged less for a given display size than an image from a smaller sensor.  The sharpness of the lens is measured in lp/mm (linear pairs per mm) or lw/mm (line widths per mm) where lw/mm is simply double the value of lp/mm.  For example, 50 lp/mm = 100 lw/mm.  The sharpness of the system is measured in lp/ph (line pairs per line pairs per picture height -- alternatively written as lp/ih -- line pairs per image height) or lw/ph (line widths per picture height).  To convert lp/mm to lp/ph, we simply multiply the value by the sensor height.  For example, let's consider a lens that resolves 50 lp/mm and convert to lp/ph:

    4/3  :  50 lp/mm · 13.0mm / ph =   650 lp/ph
    1.6x:  50 lp/mm · 14.8mm / ph =   740 lp/ph
    1.5x:  50 lp/mm · 15.7mm / ph =   785 lp/ph
    135 :  50 lp/mm · 24.0mm / ph = 1200 lp/ph

    In reality, it's not so straight forward.  That is, none of the lens tests actually measure the lens itself.  The lens is tested on a particular sensor of a certain size with a particular number of pixels and a particular AA filter, so the recorded "lp/mm" is not the resolution of the lens, but of the system the lens was tested on (see the DPR test of the 50/2 macro on the L10 vs E3 for an excellent example of the effect of the AA filter).  However, the calculations above would likely be very close if the sensors had the same number of pixels, and the same "strength" AA filter.

    However, the lenses specifically designed for smaller formats are often sharper than the lenses designed for larger formats.  Whether or not this is enough to overcome the difference in sensor size depends on the specific lens-sensor combination, and, of course, whether or not we are comparing at the same AOV and DOF.  For example, consider the Zuiko 150 / 2 on 4/3 and the Canon 300 / 4L IS on 135, which are equivalent lenses on their respective formats -- that is, both have the same AOV and maximum aperture diameter.  The 150 / 2 tested at 49 lp/mm wide open, whereas the 300 / 4L IS tested at 36 lp/mm wide open.  Since the 4/3 sensor is 13mm tall, and the 135 sensor is 24mm tall, these figures translate to 49 lp/mm · 13mm/ph = 637 lp/ph for the 150/2 and 36 lp/mm · 24mm/ph = 864 lp/ph for the 300 / 4L IS.  In other words, even though the 150 / 2 is the sharper lens, the 300 / 4L IS out resolves it on the larger sensor.

    Other factors to consider are flatness-of-field (how the image sharpness varies from center to corner) and also the contrast.  For example, DPR compares with a contrast level of 50% (MTF-50), and manufacturer MTF charts typically use computer calculations to compute the theoretical contrast at 10 lp/mm and 30 lp/mm wide open and at f/8.  It should be noted that Olympus uses 20 lp/mm and 60 lp/mm so they are directly comparable to FF MTFs, except that wide open on 4/3 often doesn't correspond to wide open on FF, and f/8 on 4/3 corresponds to f/16 on 4/3.  A similar issue occurs with 1.5x and 1.6x DSLRs as well.  To be comparable with FF MTFs, the MTFs should be at 15/45 lp/mm and 16/48 lp/mm, respectively, and, again, f/8 corresponds on 1.5x and 1.6x corresponds to f/13 on FF.  In other words, MTF comparisons across formats is not a good indication of performance (although easily close enough for 1.5x and 1.6x).  These same issues affect SLR Gear's "blur charts", which they discuss here.

    There is also the issue of corner sharpness.  It's commonly held that using a FF lens on a cropped sensor camera results in sharper corners.  However, this misunderstanding comes from people comparing at the same focal length and f-ratio rather than the same AOV and DOF (see Myth/Misunderstanding #5).

    However, there are exceptions.  One striking example is the Nikon 70-200 / 2.8 VR which, despite being a FF lens, was optimized for 1.5x as Nikon had no plans of going FF at the time of the introduction of the lens.  While the lens is much sharper over the 1.5x image circle on FF than it is on 1.5x, FF lags behind in the corners even at the same DOF (compare, for example 70mm f/2.8 on DX vs 105mm f/4 on FX).  In addition, zoom lenses will often have "sweet spots", or, alternatively, "dead spots", in their zoom range.  Because of this, we might see the smaller sensor system matching (or even exceeding) the larger sensor system when the smaller sensor system is using the lens in the "sweet spot" and the larger sensor system using the lens in the "dead spot".  An example of this is the Canon 70-200 / 2.8L IS II being used 135mm on 1.6x and 200mm on FF, since the lens performs significantly worse at 200mm than the other focal lengths.

    In addition, it's worthwhile to note that the system that resolves more detail has the option of trading the extra detail for less noise by using stronger NR (noise reduction).  In other words, system sharpness indirectly affects the noise performance of the camera.  However, there are other characteristics of IQ that are entirely dependent on the lens, such as bokeh, flare, and distortion, which often matter more than sharpness alone.  And then there are other IQ attributes, such as color, vignetting, and PF (purple fringing), which are properties of both the sensor and lens.  While the latter two elements of IQ are relatively simple fixes in PP (and can even be automatically corrected for either in-camera or with many RAW converters), they are of significantly lesser concern.

    Of course, none of this really matters if the focus is not perfect (or the focal point is well within the DOF -- SLR Gear has a nice article about this point), the photo suffers from motion blur, or suffers from camera shake (IS, either in lens or in body, goes a long way to help in some situations).  Furthermore, the effect of diffraction softening play a greater and greater role in the image sharpness as the DOF deepens, and is the dominant force after f/16 on FF (f/11 on 1.5x and 1.6x, and f/8 on 4/3).  In other words, while many place a premium on lens sharpness, they often fail to understand how many other variables are at play for a sharp photo.

    Existing lenses for larger sensor systems almost always allow for a larger maximum aperture diameter, and thus the option for a more shallow DOF, if desired, and less apparent noise.  However, the downside is that lenses for larger sensor systems (usually wide-angle) sometimes have a sudden drop-off in their MTF curves at the edges of the image circle, which makes for softer corners, although this is greatly mitigated, and sometimes even reversed, when compared at the same DOF and same output size.  Nonetheless, as the Nikon 14-24 / 2.8 has shown, wide open sharpness corner-to-corner (presuming, of course, that the entire scene is within the DOF) is certainly attainable for 35mm FF UWA.  On the other hand, other modern lenses, such as the Canon 14 / 2.8L II, do not hit full stride in the corners until f/5.6.  However, this may be a design compromise necessary to deliver desired bokeh characteristics and low distortion, or it could be a cost-cutting solution where designers felt that sharp corners are unnecessary at f-ratios less than f/5.6 on 35mm FF (as the corners are often outside the DOF regardless), or a compromise required to keep the lens small and compact.  Whatever the case may be, the Nikon lens has shown that sharp corners on 35mm FF UWA is not endemic to the format, but a choice in the design of the lens.  What compromises need to be made for these choices, is something only the lens designers know.

    Nonetheless, we can summarize the advantages of lenses for larger sensor systems as follows:

    Usually have lenses that have larger aperture diameters for a given AOV.
    Often resolve more detail on the larger sensor (at least for lenses at a comparable price-point or grade).
    For a given maximum aperture diameter, lenses for larger sensor systems are usually lighter and less expensive.

    and the advantages of lenses for smaller sensor systems:

    Often smaller and lighter for the same AOV (due to the smaller maximum aperture diameter).
    Sometimes sharper in the corners (usually UWA).
    Usually closer MFDs (minimum focusing distances) for the same AOV.

    The bottom line is that comparing lenses or sensors independently leads to inaccurate perceptions about the images that different systems are able to produce.  In terms of the IQ of the final image, it is the specific lens-sensor system that needs to be evaluated, not one or the other, and this evaluation needs to be interpreted in the context of focus accuracy, motion blur, camera shake, and diffraction softening.

     

     

     

     

     

    MEGAPIXELS:  QUALITY VS QUANTITY

     

    The Dynamic Range (DR) tells us the maximum range of light levels where we can record detail, and is the number of stops from the noise floor to the saturation point:  DR = log2 (Saturation Point / Noise Floor).  The saturation point is the maximum number of electrons that can be released, and the noise floor is the smallest number of electrons that can be released for detail to be recorded.

    For digital cameras, the DR is a pixel level measure where the noise floor is the read noise of the pixel, and the saturation point is the saturation limit for a pixel (often called the Engineering DR):  DR = log2 (Pixel Saturation / Read Noise).  However, a problem with this definition is that for a perfect sensor with zero read noise, the DR would be infinite.  Thus, a more meaningful noise floor, in terms of the visual properties of the captured photo, is to use the 100% NSR, where the 100% NSR  is the number of electrons that results in equal parts noise and signal for a read noise, R:  100% NSR = [1 + sqrt (1 + 4·R˛) ] / 2.  Thus, DR100 = log2 (Pixel Saturation / 100% NSR).

    For example, the read noise at base ISO (ISO 100) the Nikon D7000 is 3.1 electrons, and the 100% NSR is [1 + sqrt (1 + 4·3.1˛) ] / 2 =  3.64 electrons.  The pixel saturation is 49058 electrons so the DR at base ISO for the D7000 using the read noise for the LMS is  log2 (49058 / 3.1) ~ 13.9 stops, and the DR using the 100% NSR for the LMS is DR100 = log2 (49058 / 3.64) ~ 13.7 stops -- no significant difference.  However, for lower read noises, the differences between the DR and DR100 become increasingly larger (infinite, for zero read noise).

    It is also important to note that two systems with the same DR do not necessarily look the same.  One complicating factor is, since DR is a pixel-level measure, is if two photos are made from a different number of pixels (discussed below).  The other factor is that, even for the same number of pixels, one sensor with pixels that have a noise floor of 10 electrons and a saturation limit of 40960 electrons (12 stops) does not have the same properties as another sensor with a noise floor of 2 electrons and a saturation limit of 8192 electrons (12 stops), since DR does not take photon noise into account.

    In addition, many confuse bit depth with DR.  The DR is the number of bits of information about the scene that the sensor can collect per pixel.  The bit depth is the number of bits of information the supporting hardware can process and record per pixel.  If the DR is greater than the bit depth, the supporting hardware is not taking full advantage of the sensor output, that is, not all levels of the captured DR will be distinguishable.  On the other hand, if the bit depth is greater than the DR, more memory is being used than necessary to store the photo.  The tone curve applied to the photo maps the linear capture of the RAW file into a processed image file that may, or may not, reflect the DR of the initial capture.

    This brings us to how DR fares for jpg vs RAW.  Since jpgs are 8 bits, they can display at most 8 levels of the DR.  The tone curve decides which levels of the DR are represented in the jpg file.  The advantage of RAW over in-camera jpgs is that RAW allows the photographer to choose the "appropriate" tone curve after the fact, but if the in-camera jpg has the desirable tone curve, then the RAW file has no advantage in this regard since most display media (prints and computer monitors) can only display 8-9 levels.

    In a sense, RAW vs jpg is analogous to Auto vs M mode.  In Auto mode, the camera chooses the f-ratio and shutter speed for the capture; in M mode, the photographer chooses.  Just as some photographers may feel that the camera makes the right choices in Auto mode, some photographers may feel that the tone curve applied in-camera is the right choice.  If the camera has multiple options for tone curves, this is analogous to shooting in an AE (auto exposure) mode such as Av, where the photographer chooses the f-ratio, but the camera chooses the shutter speed, or Tv mode, where the camera chooses the f-ratio, but the photographer chooses the shutter speed.  The analogy breaks down, however, in that that photographer cannot change the f-ratio and/or shutter speed after the fact, but the photographer can choose the tone curve after the fact if they shoot RAW.

    An excellent example of  applying the "appropriate" tone curve after the fact, are the following two photos here:

    http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1034&message=36903045

    Note how the bottom photo has compressed the DR of the scene by revealing details in the highlights that were blown in the top photo, since the higher ISO of the bottom photo shifted the DR of the capture four stops lower.  So, even though the medium (jpg displayed on a computer monitor) cannot display all 14 stops of the DR of the initial RAW capture, the DR of the capture can be mapped into the fewer levels of the display medium by an "appropriate" tone curve to produce a better photo.  This is not unlike how we see.  Our eyes take several exposures of scenes, and our brain merges these exposures into an HDR-like memory of what we "saw".

    However, as discussed above, the DR is not an ideal measure for comparing the IQ of photos from different systems, since:

     DR is a pixel level measure as opposed to image level measure, which is an issue if the systems have significantly different pixel counts
     A perfect sensor with zero read noise would have an infinite DR, which is unrealistic in terms of a measure of the visual properties of the photo.

    Enter the DR100 / µphoto, where a µphoto is one-millionth of a photo:  DR100 / µphoto = log2 [(Saturation / µphoto) / (100% NSR / µphoto)] Since one µphoto represents the same portion of the photo regardless of how many pixels it is made of, the DR100 / µphoto is an image level measurement.  It is worthwhile to note that a photo displayed at 1200 x 900 pixels on a computer monitor is 1.08 MP.  Hence one µphoto represents one pixel on a computer monitor for a photo displayed at that size.

    So, let's compute the DR100 /  µphoto for the D7000 at ISO 100 (16.37 MP sensor, read noise = 3.1 electrons, pixel saturation = 49058 electrons).  One µphoto is 16.37 pixels, so the read noise / µphoto is 3.1 electrons · sqrt 16.37 ~ 12.5 electrons.  The 100% NSR / µphoto is [1 + sqrt (1 + 4·12.5˛) ] / 2 ~ 13.1  electrons.  The saturation capacity / µphoto is 16.37 · 49058 electrons = 803079 electrons.  Hence, the DR100 / µphoto = log2 (803079 / 13.1) ~ 15.9 stops -- two stops higher than the DR pixel-level measurement.

    The significance of the difference between the DR and the DR100 /  µphoto can been seen in an example comparing the 60D to the 40D at ISO 100.  The 40D (10.3 MP, read noise = 19.6 electrons, pixel saturation = 40311 electrons) has a DR of 11.0 stops at base ISO -- slightly higher than the 60D (read noise = 13.2 electrons, pixel saturation = 24322 electrons).  However, the DR100 / µphoto for the 40D works out to be 12.7 stops -- slightly lower than the 60D.  Thus, we can see how the DR100 / µphoto reflects the IQ differential from the slightly more efficient sensor of the 60D, whereas the DR does the exact opposite.

    Increasing sensor efficiency by lowering the read noise / area and/or increasing the saturation capacity / area will increase both the DR and the DR100 / µphoto.  However, increasing the number of pixels will have no effect on the DR, but will increase the DR100 / µphoto of a system (and hence the IQ of a photo), so long as the sensor efficiency does not suffer.  The maximum possible DR100 / µphoto for a system is log2 (saturation capacity / µphoto) which can only be achieved on an ideal sensor with zero read noise.

    However, this is not to say that two systems with the same DR100 / µphoto will produce equally pleasing photos.  A good example is to compare the DR of the Canon 5D at ISO 100 and ISO 400, which is virtually the same, and, since we are comparing on the same sensor, the DR100 / µphoto would also be the nearly same.  Clearly, we would not claim that the ISO 400 photo has the same IQ of the ISO 100 photo.  While the range of lighting in which the 5D could capture detail would be essentially the same, the noise would not, since the ISO 400 photo would be capturing 1/4 the light as the ISO 100 photo.

    In other words, DR100 / µphoto is simply another measure to measure the IQ of a photo, but must be taken in context.  Just as two cameras with the same pixel count will not necessarily record the same amount of detail, two systems with the same DR100 / µphoto will not necessarily produce photos with the same tonality.

     

     

     

     

     

    EQUIVALENT LENSES

     

    The definition of an equivalent lens is a lens that produces an equivalent image that another lens produces on another format.  In other words, equivalent lenses will have the same aperture diameter (as opposed to f-ratio) for the same AOV.  For example, the 135 / 2L on 35mm FF is equivalent to an 85 / 1.2L on 1.6x and a 70-200 / 4L (IS) on 35mm FF is equivalent to a 35-100 / 2 on 4/3.  Many people very much dislike this terminology and consider it "misleading" and even "dishonest".  Typically, they feel that it is sufficient to think in terms of AOV and exposure, and ignore the importance of DOF, as well as the significance of difference between exposure and total light.  To this end, we often hear people saying "f/2 is f/2 is f/2" regardless of format.  However, that statement is every bit as misleading as saying "50mm is 50mm is 50mm" regardless of format.  Just as 50mm yields different AOVs on different formats, f/2 will result in a different aperture diameter for a given AOV and thus a different DOF as well as admitting a different total amount of light onto the sensor which will result in different quantities of apparent noise.

    Recalling one of the top ten misunderstandings of equivalence, that "equivalence" does not mean "equal", we need to realize that equivalent lenses are not identical, of course, and there can be important operational differences between them.  For example, while the Canon 135 / 2L on FF is equivalent to the 85 / 1.2L II on 1.6x, the 135 / 2L is much less expensive, larger (but lighter), and focuses much faster.  Another example is the Canon 24-105 / 4L IS on 35mm FF.  Its closest equivalent on 1.6x is the 17-55 / 2.8 IS (equivalent to a 28-88 / 4.5 IS on 35mm FF).  But while the 35mm FF lens has the advantage of more range at both the wide and long end, it suffers the disadvantage of not being able to use the high precision f/2.8 AF sensor as the 17-55 / 2.8 IS on 1.6x can.  Nonetheless, while there most certainly may be operational differences in many instances, equivalent lenses produce equivalent images on their respective formats.  Of course, we must remember that "equivalent" does not mean "equal", and there may be important IQ considerations to consider between equivalent lenses that are not subject to equivalence, such as bokeh, flare, PF, etc.

    An important consideration when choosing systems is to compare available lenses in equivalent terms of the same format.  Often, lenses may have the same AOV, but not the same maximum aperture diameter.  For example, the Canon 50 / 1.4 has the same AOV as the 30 / 1.4 on 1.6x and the 25 / 1.4 on 4/3, but it's max aperture diameter (50mm / 1.4 = 36mm) is larger than either.  To match the aperture diameter of the 50 / 1.4 on FF, we would need a 30 / 0.9 on 1.6x and a 25 / 0.7 on 4/3, neither of which exist.  On the other hand, smaller formats will often have smaller and lighter lenses when such larger aperture diameters are not needed.  For example, the Canon 400 / 5.6L on 1.6x is equivalent to a 640 / 9L on 35mm FF, which does not exist.  And even if it did, the AF system would not function at that f-ratio.  In fact, 35mm FF does not even currently have a 600 / 5.6L as an option.  Thus, FF shooters are "forced" to use a 600 / 4L IS, which is huge and expensive, or crop the images for shorter glass yielding less pixels on the subject, and thus less detail.

    So while lenses for 35mm FF typically have the advantage for more shallow DOFs (if desired) and more light gathering ability, FF often lacks smaller and lighter lenses with smaller aperture diameters to achieve the same reach as smaller formats.  In addition to this drawback, FF lenses sometimes have the same minimum focusing distance for the same FL, not for the same effective reach.  For example, the minimum focusing distance of the 135 / 2L is 0.9m whether on 1.6x or 35mm FF, but 135mm on 1.6x has an EFL (effective focal length) of 216mm on 35mm FF, and the 35mm FF equivalent of the 135 / 2L on 1.6x is the 200 / 2.8L, which has a minimum AF distance of 1.2m.  Hence, the smaller sensor system can almost always frame more closely.

    And then there are some lenses which have no equivalents in either AOV or DOF between systems.  For example, the Tokina 10-17 / 3.5-4.5 FE on 1.6x corresponds to a 16-27 / 5.6-7.1 FE on 35mm FF.  There is no lens even remotely like that available, and, even if there were, it would not AF on anything less than a Canon 1-series body.  Also, the 70-300 / 4-5.6 on 4/3 corresponds to a 140-600/ 8-11 on 35mm FF.  If such a lens were made for 35mm FF, and it would AF, I'm sure there are many 35mm FF shooters who would love such a lens.

    Lastly, there is the notion that some lenses on one system are "superior" to the lenses available on another system.  So, while this section has discussed "equivalent lenses" in terms of AOV and DOF, it has not addressed "equivalent lenses" in terms of IQ.  First of all, it's important to understand what role the sensor size plays in terms of image sharpness.  A sharper lens on a smaller sensor does not necessarily deliver a sharper image (see Myth #4 for more explanation on this point).  Of course, this must be taken on a lens by lens basis, and the individual properties of sharpness, bokeh, distortion, flare resistance, etc., may well be superior for the lens of one system for some elements of IQ, and inferior for other elements of IQ.  In addition, we must also take care to compare the lenses as they perform on their respective systems, rather than on their own merits.  For example, it makes no sense in terms of the capability of the system to say "Lens A is sharper than Lens B" if it does not produce a sharper image for equivalent settings (same AOV, DOF, and output size) on the format the lens is used on, since the sensor size plays a significant role in how well the lens performs on a given system.  Likewise, if we are comparing bokeh or distortion, we have to be careful to compare at the same AOV and DOF, lest me make inaccurate assessments about the lens performance on the system it will be used on.

    Of course some might argue that the lens lasts longer than the sensor technology, and consider evaluating the lens alone in terms of an "investment" in the system.  However, how a lens performs on a system has everything to do with the size of the sensor and not the technology level of the sensor.  The technology level of the sensor determines noise performance (and, to some extent, vignetting and chromatic aberration), not sharpness, bokeh, flare, distortion, etc. 

    In the end, we must consider the available lenses for a system when choosing which system best suits our needs, but we must understand how these lenses perform on the sensor that will be recording the images.  To this end, understanding that equivalent lenses produce equivalent images (same AOV and DOF), along with the operational differences between the lenses, is an important consideration when choosing a system.

     

     

     

     

     

    IQ VS OPERATION

     

    There are, of course, many other operational advantages to smaller sensor cameras, not the least of which are size, weight, and cost.  It should not merely be noted, but stressed, that for the sizes that most people print, and the DOFs that most people prefer, IQ is likely the least of their concerns with modern cameras, and operation is the overwhelming difference by which to choose.

    Among the most critical of the operational differences to consider is the camera's AF system -- IQ means nothing if the pic is OOF (out-of-focus) or a focus lock cannot be achieved.  In fact, it's amazing how much attention the megapixel counts and how little the AF system receives, since even a tiny focus error can greatly reduce the detail of an image.  A great write-up on the importance of accurate AF is given here at www.slrgear.com.  To a lesser degree, but sometimes just as important, if not more so, is shutter lag -- the time lag between when the shutter is depressed and when the capture is taken.  For some types of photography, the moment can be lost in that split-second (although, from personal experience, more often than not it is the hesitation from the operator that is usually the dominant factor for missed shots of narrow opportunity).   In addition, it must be said that the availability of a feature, such as in-camera IS, will most certainly, under many circumstances, go a long way to creating a higher quality image.  Yet in-camera IS is available only on some 1.5x and 4/3 DSLRs as well as compact digicams.  FF DSLRs, with the exception of Sony, currently rely on in-lens IS which is not available for all, or even most, lenses.

    In some cases, such as UWA, the smaller format may have better corner performance.  Systems with higher resolution, however, have the option to frame wider and crop if corner sharpness is of supreme importance.  However, this is an inconvenience that some would rather not have to deal with.  Likewise, some systems may offer better jpg performance than other systems, and for those that prefer the convenience of jpg over maximizing IQ with RAW, this may well trump the advantage of otherwise superior performance.  Furthermore, for those that do not shoot in Av or M mode, they may find that the larger formats choose a DOF that is too shallow for their liking.

    Of course, none of this even matters if you don't have the camera with you in the first place.  In other words, if the system is too heavy to carry up the mountain, or the weather is wet and the camera and lenses are not weather sealed, or the camera is too large to be used discreetly, then it really doesn't matter how good the IQ is if the camera is not going to be used.

    In general, the advantage of larger sensor systems are basically shallow DOF and higher IQ for times when shutter speed may be "safely" lowered to maintain the desired DOF.  On the other hand, smaller sensor DSLR systems often have size, weight, operational, and cost advantages that outweigh the DOF and IQ differences between the systems.

    It is always paramount to compare the systems in terms of IQ, operation, and available lenses/accessories.  Each individual must the seek the best balance of these considerations and choose the system that best meets their needs.

     

     

     

     

     

    HYPOTHETICAL COMPARISON

     

    The purpose of this section is to demonstrate the principles of equivalence without muddying the water with differences between various systems in terms of operation, available lenses, and unequal pixel counts.  Of course, the operation, available lenses, and pixel count are not only important considerations, but many times the primary consideration, in choosing a system.  However, by eliminating these variables in this section, it is my intent to more clearly illustrate the relationship between the sensor and the lenses in terms of IQ.

    We begin with a hypothetical Olympus FF DSLR system, which I will call the "F3", that is simply a sca